San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

The fairy’s teacup

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Since finding the teacup, the cobblestones have yielded other treasures — an anchor from a small fairy boat, a tiny pawn which may have been used as a coat rack, and the remnant of a fairy’s full-length mirror. They all stay in my change purse, should their owners ever wish to reclaim them.

There is an old tradition, which I am just now making up, that says when you find a fairy’s unbroken teacup on a cobblestone street, good luck will follow you around — as long as the cup remains intact. 

For you see, anything that survives unbroken on a cobblestone street must be very, very lucky, indeed.

The fairies live in the oldest trees of San Miguel de Allende. When the trees are cut down to make way for more buildings, the fairies must flee and take with them the good luck, kind feelings, and benevolent outlook which they share with the city. 

And the few possessions they can salvage ahead of the developers.

Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Help! I’ve fallen into reality and I can’t get up

 

 

“Have I tumbled out of reality or into it?” — Robert Cooksey, on Facebook.

Great question, Bob.

I think I know where he is coming from. My friend Bob lives here in San Miguel de Allende. Like him, I can not believe our good fortune to be living in such a place.

The flip side of that expression of gratitude is that we’ve both very happy to no longer be living in the United States. (I speak for Bob — up to a point — because he is so outspoken on Facebook about his dismay over the direction the country has taken since, oh, since November 2016 at least.)

But now I’m getting off-topic.

Well, OK, I’m going to say it: This is a magical city.

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Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

The racist at the next table

The couple sat down at the next table as I dipped my second churro into a piping hot Chocolate Mexicano.

“I’ll sit right next to my darling sweetheart,” said the man brightly. And a little loudly.

“Who talks like that?” I wondered.

I was especially curious because I happened to be reading a NOVA report on the theory that the Big Bang created a mirrored universe that runs in reverse of ours. Mind you, not for one moment did I think that I’d slipped through the portal and landed in 1947.

It was just, you know, quaint. And a tad patriarchial. But then, she looked like the sort who thought a line like that might be charming, under some circumstances. Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Hiking the Rio Laja to Antotonilco

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All it takes is to miss a turn and you end up on a quiet country road like this one, which leads to the long-ago abandoned hacienda Las Trancas, about midway into the first section of the trail and a fabulous spot from which to engage the river.

We did it! We found the off-road, Rio Laja trail from San Miguel de Allende to Antotonilco. Several weeks ago, when we walked to Antotonilco along the old highway it was pleasant enough but the road is narrow and pretty busy.

Here and there we’d catch glimpses of the chalky gray Rio Laja which flows south into the sprawling reservoir called La Pressa Allende. And here and there was evidence of a trail!

We’re still new at this hiking/walking thing and lacked the confidence to jump off the road and into the brush along a river we hardly knew. Who knew where we might end up? Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Curbing his enthusiasm

 

This little guy was sitting all alone this morning on Calle Hiernandez Macias, or so it seemed. Half a block down was his mother, sitting against a wall in the shade offering Chiclets to tourists.

He was bored enough to topple off the curb and into a pigeon pose in the street, before switching to an updog pose. Our little yoga master!

 

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

San Miguel’s season of holidays: And so it begins

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Many of the tribal marching groups are lead by El Diablo, a delicious variety of devils. This one was the best, by far.

The procession to kick of the season of processions in San Miguel de Allende took place today. All month long there will be processions and parades (two very different things) and fiestas honoring — well, gosh, you name it.

Today’s “resena” was a preview of what is to come, and if the weather doesn’t cool down what is to come is some very overheated dancers. The Resena began as Calzada de la Extacion and came straight up the fairly steep (especially if you are dancing up the street) Calle Canal and into Centro. Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel: Where ever you may be, there it is

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Let the road lead you to where ever it may.

One sight around San Miguel de Allende that is inescapable — and delightfully so — is the curlicue confection-inspired spires of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel.

No matter where you walk, there it is: the pinkish-salmon spires of the city’s most iconic church. And, there, around it are the half-dozen aspirant church belfries and towers and domes.

The Parroquia is a big reason for San Miguel’s designation as a World Heritage Site and it is one of the most photographed churches in all of Mexico. And that is saying a lot. Churches here are like Starbucks in the United States, on every corner it seems. Continue reading

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Memoirs -- fact and fiction, Uncategorized

For the record, I did not attend Woodstock …am I the only one?

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See those people clustered around the blue Volkswagon microbus? None of them is me. The reason being that, given the choice of going to Woodstock or spending the weekend in a remote Pennsylvania forest, I chose the latter.

I was 19 the summer of the Woodstock music festival and lived less than 275 miles from the Bethel, N.Y. site of the concert that shaped my generation.

So, it is important to note, as the 50th anniversary begins today, that I did not attend Woodstock.

No freaking way. Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

When you have to wait …

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The Umbrellas of Cherbourg hover above the courtyard at Paprika Restaurante.

So often we zip into Paprika Restaurante, catch a concert in the back or check for mail upfront. Then zip out again. Rarely do we slow down to appreciate the many layers of beauty which make up the interior space.

Tuesday, we were fortunate to attend a concert by violinist/composer David Mendoza and pianist Lorelei Capell in the Paprika courtyard. We found ourselves there a little early, which in itself, was a gift.

Stepping off the busy Ancha de San Antonio and into the courtyard is like stepping back in time, to something like 17th century Spain. Or, maybe a movie set.

Every corner, every niche, invites inspection. The eye flits over statues, cornices, carvings, flora, several layers of living space soaring into the sky above, and umbrellas.

Yes, a row of colorful umbrellas. They like artifacts from the French musical “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” and convey a whimsical air to the setting from above.

As for the concert, there is none better to enhance the setting. David Mendoza has returned to San Miguel de Allende after an absence that was felt by many. He doesn’t just play the violin, he inhabits every note and imbues the music with an intoxicating joyfulness. You should see how people smile when he puts bow to strings. You can’t help it.

Lorelei Capell is the perfect complement to David’s flights of passion. Together they performed a set of deeply moving songs, mostly from classic movies. The set contained a fair number of compositions from Ennio Morricone, including from “Cinema Paradiso,” and one from Yann Tiersen’s soundtrack for “Amelie.”

“It is going to be a very romantic evening,”  Lorelei had said the day before. How right she was!

David went solo for the second half with his own compositions using drum tracks, sound loops, and reverb to augment his meditative and dreamlike music. He gently painted on layer upon layer of sound until a near orchestral density pulled at the heart.

With an uncanny sense of timing, the concert ended minutes before the skies opened and evening showers arrived.

___   ___   ___   ___   ___

David Mendoza performs in concert next on 25th September at Miguel Malo hall,  in the Bellas Artes. You can sometimes catch him around town, sitting in with other fine musicians, like Media Luna which performs Sundays at Paprika.

 

 

 

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Going micro at El Charco del Ingenio

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A view of the opposite wall of the canyon from El Charco. One of the few “scenic” photos I allowed myself today.

A wise old friend once said, “If you really want to observe life in the desert, get down on your hands and knees.”

His point was, everything that goes on in the fissures and tiny patches of shade on the dessert floor is every bit as complex and magical as the sweeping vistas and craggy mountain ledges and canyons and arroyos.

And he was right, you know. Thanks, Bud Murphy, where ever you may be.

I was thinking about old Bud this morning as we hiked up to El Charco del Ingenio, the jardin botanico in San Miguel de Allende. Two weeks ago when we hiked up here, I was mesmerized by the big picture: beautiful trails, the Presa las Colonias, the ancient canyon below the reservoir dam, the vast diversity of central Mexico flora on display.

Today, it was different. In the intervening two weeks, the rains have returned. Everything is green and healthy. The reservoir is spilling over just enough water to activate some of the canyon waterfalls.

But my focus was on the extraordinary patterns and textures of many of the plants in the garden, especially the cacti.

So, here is some of what you find when you get down on your hands and knees and look deep into the biosphere. Click on each image for an expanded view:

 

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