Camino Frances, Uncategorized

A chill in the air, a moving spiritual encounter, and all of Ireland seems to be walking the Camino

Leaving Burgos this morning.

I’ve had a run of Irish companions on the Camino today (meaning the past 24 hours).

There is my perennial friend Eoghan (Owen) who I encounter every couple of days.

Last night in Burgos, Kate from Tasmania and Martin from Bristol (Eng.) joined me for some tapas before calling it a night.

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Camino Frances

The Camino path plays mind games before yielding a most magnificent city

A mystical morning, on the path from little Ages to Burgos. The full moon was strong enough to cut through the gauzy morning haze.

No headlamp was needed, though Deny from Quebec and I walked right past the turn, both of us talking, neither of us looking for the yellow arrows in the woozy dawn light.

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Camino Frances, Uncategorized

Walking into the moon

My bunk-room mates settled the issue for me this morning in Belorado: Should I get up early for the 18 mile walk to Ages or start late and cope with the afternoon sun?

The rustling and zipping of bags, dropping of electronics in the dark, scurrying to the bathroom, the burst of red light from headlamps — it all began before 5 a.m.

That’s ok. I wasn’t sleeping much anyway.

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Camino Frances, Uncategorized

The Camino is the gift that keeps on giving

On the road out of Santo Domingo early this morning. Gandalf as pilgrim??

Last night in Santo Domingo, a woman from Wisconsin handed me a “tree of life” sticker which I promptly pasted on the back of my iPhone case. Next to the one from DeYoung museum in San Francisco.

She handed them out several of them to people in our auberge bunk room.

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Camino Frances, Uncategorized

Holy Camino!  The long and winding (uphill) road

Pilgrim’s dinner tonight in the public square. I think it was pork.

It was a smart move to end yesterday in the little village of Ventosa and stay at the Auberge San Saturnino.

I got to end the day early and reorganize my backpack for the 30th time. Have I mentioned this phenomena? No matter how many ways I move things around in the backpack, it never gets lighter.

Science. So amazing.

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Camino Frances, Uncategorized

On the Camino, sometimes it isn’t how you start, but where you end up

After enjoying the festivities in Logroño last night, I somehow had it in my head that a super early start was just the ticket.

Getting up at 6 am and leaving as quietly and quickly as possible is accepted protocol, especially when you are sharing a room with 20 to 30 bunkies.

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Colonia San Antonio, Memoirs -- fact and fiction, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Water, water everywhere and … well, that’s the whole story

Water was a running theme all day Sunday: On Carretera Antotonilco A Cruz del Palmar, next to Rio Lajas, on the way back to San Miguel.

I walked and waded 19 miles along muddy roads on Sunday, only to find myself wading through a couple of inches of water in my apartment during the torrential downpour later in the evening. Wet and wild was sort of the theme on Sunday.

There I was, standing at the front door, watching the downpour and marveling at how Moppit and I had dodged a bullet.

Moments before, we’d set out for our evening walk when the sprinkling started. Normally, we’d race around the block before the rain began in earnest. Not this time. After eight rainy seasons in San Miguel de Allende, you learn to listen to your gut, read the clouds, scope out the wind, and sense the drop in barometric pressure.

We turned around and raced home, just as the skies let loose.

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Memoirs -- fact and fiction, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Grandson: ‘Do you have pictures of your bull-fighting endeavors?’

The text came early last night from my 8-year-old grandson, Tallac. The one every grandfather awaits. The one in which a child actually asks an old man something about the life he lived long, long ago. 

The question: “Do you have pictures of your bull-fighting endeavors?”

It was as close as I would ever get to “Grandpa, what did you do during the war?”

Or, in theatrical terms, it was my Peter Falk in “Princess Bride” moment.

And I guess I blew it.

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photography, Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende

The magic in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge

I’m looking out over that Golden Gate Bridge
On another gorgeous sunny Saturday.

— Doobie Brothers, “Listen to the Music”

Most bridges, if they lead into a city of any size, lack pizzazz. Oh, they may be architectural gems, but you barely notice this.

Why?

Because most bridges are surrounded by distracting urban clutter.

High-rises, highway on- and off-ramps, shipbuilders, warehouses, industrial stacks, skyscrapers, condo towers — the stuff that makes cities be cities. This stuff bustles up against the entrances and exits of bridges. Suddenly, you are crossing a span with little sense of its architectural might. Rarely do you get to appreciate the majesty of a span uncluttered.

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Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Thoughts while returning to Mexico during the cartel ‘crisis’

The death of El Mencho at the hands of the Mexican military reached me in San Francisco as I was packing for my flight to Leon.

We’ve had enough cartel leaders captured and killed to know what follows.

Roads get blocked, buses and cars get torched, OXXO stores go up in flames.

It is the same thing every time. Which made me wonder two things:

  1. Why doesn’t the government anticipate the cartel response and preemptively shut them down?
  2.  Why OXXO stores?

I suspect the whole take-out-the-bad-guy and watch them burn an OXXO or two has been ritualized over the decades. I imagine the back-channel negotiation sounds like this: “We kill your guy, and you can torch some stuff. Show you are still the boss. Have you considered OXXO stores? There are tons of them.”

The whole thing becomes a one- or two-day outburst. The government gets its quarry, the cartel gets to vent, and the media gets its photos and videos of burning cars and buses. Win, win, win.

The alternative would be open warfare or guerrilla skirmishes that could last for weeks. And believe me, the tourism industry and resorts, largely financed by the cartels, do not want that.

Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes was a big deal, the most violent and ruthless leader in all of Mexico. When his Jalisco New Generation moves into new territory, it always comes with a bloody message. They borrowed the concept from the U.S. – shock and awe. The body count is high and feels indiscriminate.

JNG has spread through much of Mexico, so it is no surprise that there were at least 85 roadblocks reported by Sunday evening. By Monday, 30 cartel members were dead, as were 25 National Guard soldiers, and one civilian.

Importantly, the military was able to track down a close associate of El Mencho, his chief financial officer, who was coordinating the protests. He, too, was killed. On Sunday. That’s quick work for any country.

That may explain why things were rather quiet on Monday.

By the time I got to Oakland International on Sunday evening, flights to Guadalajara were back on the board, albeit delayed. There were no cancellations to other Mexican cities that I could see.

There were certainly no-shows. My Volaris flight was less than one-third full.

The airport in Leon was filled with people coming and going when we arrived at 5 a.m. I walked around as my driver waited fruitlessly for what turned out to be some of the no-shows. What I didn’t see was a military presence. No local police officers or private security agents, either. 

Kind of surprising since Leon is now considered New Generation turf.

Neither were there military details posted along the 90-minute drive to San Miguel de Allende. My driver, who can shuttle to the airports in Leon and Queretaro as many as four times in a day, said that Sunday was business as usual.

None of the half-dozen OXXO stores we passed were burned up, although I heard rumors that one was torched in downtown Leon. 

In San Miguel de Allende, a lot of places were closed on Sunday, including the main mall. A curfew was in effect on Sunday. A fire at an older mall was thwarted and quickly extinguished. Bus lines didn’t run. Schools and banks were closed on Monday.

Tuesday came in the most normal way. I walked Moppet, the Belizean philosopher dog. Ran into two friends having coffee at the Italian bakery, stopped to listen to musician Frad as she busked in front of another bakery, and later encountered two old friends in Wolf’s Gym, where I am preparing for my fall French Camino.

Afterward, I walked up to Comer, the major grocery store in SMA. The only thing unusual to report is that I was able to walk right up to a register and check out, without waiting. Trust me, at Comer, that is huge.

From Comer, the Uber driver said that business has been a little slow, but this was a Tuesday. He lives in Celaya but drives in San Miguel because – though smaller – we have more tourists and gringos and tip better.

There are a few things that struck me about this event. 

  1. There were an extraordinary number of fake AI-generated videos and images distributed with alarming speed – faster than the truth.
  2. Cars and buses on fire generate massive amounts of smoke and make great news photographs. But they are, in the end, only buses and cars.
  3. From what I can find, one civilian died in all this. ICE has killed more people in the U.S.
  4. Mexico is taking care of its business. El Mencho was a vicious character. If the U.S. supplied intel, then bravo. But it needs to respect Mexican autonomy and territory.
  5. The last time a cartel this powerful was knocked down, it splintered into smaller groups and formed alliances with other cartels, which grew stronger.
  6. These cartels have distribution networks in all 50 states. Is ICE taking them down? I haven’t heard of any drug rings being broken up in the past six months.
  7. The cartels get their guns from the U.S. The U.S. gets its drugs from the cartels. Maybe the administration is looking at the wrong “porous border” when it goes after immigrants and refugees.
  8. Nothing much happened in San Miguel de Allende, but that does not mean we get off scot free.

JNG has been locked in a turf war with our local cartel, Santa Rosa de Lima, and from what I’ve been told, they now have footholds in Guanajuato, Celaya, and Leon.

It feels like we are being encircled. Like we’re next.

There have been cartel killings and dismemberments in the outer colonias, and bodies found on the outskirts of SMA. More than we care to openly acknowledge. Tourism, and all.

Santa Rosa has been around for a long time. They are entrenched. They are also entrenched, I’m told, maybe five blocks from where I live.

But I could not tell you in eight years that I have ever seen a cartel guy. Not surprisingly, they look just like all the other guys. That should give the U.S pause, if it decides to “invade” Mexico to take out cartels.

Almost all wars since Vietnam have been fought by people who look just like civilians. And they never end well for the uniformed troops.

In nearly eight years here, I have not once felt threatened, in danger, or concerned. There is crime. I know people who have been robbed at roadblocks and on the streets here. I know of stores and restaurants that closed rather than continue to pay protection money.

I just hope the U.S. gives Mexico a fighting chance. Eliminating the cartels through military action is going to be violent, bloody, and damned scary, especially if you are a tourist sunbathing out in front of a beachside resort when the hammer comes down.

What U.S. reporters might look at is the burgeoning middle class that is making its presence known all across Mexico. Other countries are investing billions in manufacturing, assembly, and distribution facilities all across Mexico. There are jobs, jobs, jobs. In the past, the choice may have been a bleak one, between cleaning resorts and cartels. No more.

I met a young woman recently at her parents’ tiny restaurant here in Colonia San Antonio. She had been a design engineer for Rolls-Royce in nearby Queretaro. Now she is an insurance executive and is helping her parents grow their business. The educated young have choices unheard of 10 years ago.

Prosperity may be the best weapon Mexico can wield against the cartels.

That, and the United States getting a grip on its drug use and weapons manufacturing.

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