Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende

Behind closed doors: Oh, what a relief it is!

It is popular and entirely appropriate in San Miguel de Allende to say “You never know what’s behind a closed door.”

Entrances on San Miguel streets give you no hint at all as to what lies behind them.

The most humble of doors can open onto a garden of Eden, a fairyland, a small village, a rabbit warren of homes, a vast and empty park, a stately hacienda, ancient ruins, a private town square surrounded by stately homes, ageless and towering trees, private roads – well, whatever imagination and money can conjure.

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San Miguel de Allende

Four SMA doctors walk through a door …

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Four doctors walk into a room. For the next 90 minutes, they give a free medical consultation to the scores of people assembled.

No, this is not the start of a joke with a lame punchline.

In fact, if there is a punchline, it would be that the doctors shared valuable information that could save your life. Not funny, just very very helpful.

On Monday afternoon, four of San Miguel de Allende’s most prominent physicians took turns unraveling the mysteries of obtaining good medical care as a gringo in Mexico. The event, titled “Mexico, Medicine and Me: General and Urgent Care,” is to be the first in a series at the Biblioteca on this theme.

The four were Dr. Roberto Luis Maxwell Martinez, the dean of medical practitioners in San Miguel and critical care specialist; Dr. Grace Lim, internal medicine physician and a lifetime resident of San Miguel; Dr. Ricardo Gordillo, founder of The Clinic, general medicine, and stem cell researcher; and Dr. Emilio Ramirez, emergency medicine physician.

Each took turns addressing the key concerns of ex-pat residents, including public vs private hospitals; state, private, and U.S. health insurances; when is a medical emergency actually an emergency; how to find a primary care doctor; how individuals can take control of their medical needs; the importance of a “do not resuscitate” proclamation; and developing a Plan B for medical emergencies (after you have nailed your A game).

The advice was both practical and rich in common sense steps – but also, the kind of stuff so very few people actually practice until they find themselves in the middle of a medical emergency.

So, here’s the goods, as it was delivered.

First, when an ex-pat walks into a hospital, the first thing they are likely to encounter is a language barrier. In the public hospital, of which there is one in San Miguel, almost nobody speaks English. Your odds of finding bi-lingual staff increase massively in private hospitals.

All the same, “be patient,” urges Dr. Maxwell.

If you don’t know Spanish, at the very least, learn some key phrases that will help staff understand your problem. For example (these are mine):

El nombre de mi médico es _________ – My doctor’s name is _______

Estoy teniendo un ataque al corazon. – I’m having a heart attack.

Tengo un dolor muy fuerte aquí. – I have a very bad pain right here.

Por favor, ayudame. Estory muy enfermo. – Please help me. I am very sick.

Aquí está mi historial médico. – Here are my medical records.

Gracias por cuidarme. — Thank you for taking care of me.

¿Quién ganó el partido de fútbol de esta noche? – Who won tonight’s soccer game?

¿Dónde están las máquinas de Coca-Cola y snacks? – Where are the Coke and snacks machines?

Puedes llamarme un taxi? – Can you call me a taxi.

Ok, well enough, but what happens before you get to the hospital … and how do you get there?

Let’s start before you even have a heart attack, a stroke, or a failing kidney.

The first thing you should do, the doctors all say, is find yourself a primary care physician. There are lots of excellent ones here in San Miguel. 

You find one by asking your friends and acquaintances who they recommend. Don’t wait until you are sick. Sign up for an introductory consultation.

“Your first consultation has to click,” says Dr. Lim, “if not, find another doctor.”

Once you find a doctor, find out at which hospital he or she practices. In an emergency, that is where you want to end up. Once you know whether it is La Joya or MAC, the two main critical care hospitals, sign up for a tour. Get familiar with their location and layout.

More and more doctors here successfully treat patients up to the second level of care – when the time comes to call in a specialist. This is the doctor who knows you best and can call in the right specialists as needed. Your general practice doctor is the “center of referral.” 

Most interestingly, the doctors say your first call in an emergency should be to your own doctor rather than 911 or Cruz Rojas. Dr. Lim sees the primary care physician as your “team leader” in a medical emergency. Your doctor can get an ambulance, alert the hospital, provide medical details, give you quick advice on how to mitigate your problem, and meet you there.

Your primary doctor knows your medical history, what medications you take, what allergies you have, your blood type, and plenty of other medical and personal knowledge that the hospital emergency care staff will find invaluable.

Again, also, when you are flying solo, it is a bit about the language. Your first contact with 911, the ambulance service, and the hospital will likely be in Spanish. Be prepared to answer questions about your health for up to 10 minutes – questions for which your doctor should already have the answer. And while you are fumbling with Google Translate, valuable time is being lost.

As Dr. Ramirez put it “time is life.” Don’t waste it.

“I’d rather have a patient call me at 2 or 3 a.m. than call 911 or Red Cross,” said Dr. Maxwell.

Of course, if you can’t reach your own doctor, call for an ambulance. Give your doctor’s name to the admissions staff as soon as you reach critical care. They will reach him or her.

Ok, so far so good. You’ve got a doctor and a hospital. You’re in good hands. Your work is done, right? 

So very wrong.

Long before we reach the emergency stage, there are many things you can do for your own protection.

The most basic thing is, to draw up a list of phone numbers – your doctors, your hospital, 911, Red Cross (the ambulance service in SMA), your family, your key friends, and your patient advocate. Keep it handy and update it as necessary.

Next thing to keep handy is your medical records. You may have noticed that in Mexico, your doctor hands over medical papers to you – including x-rays, blood test results, MRI results, prescriptions, allergies, medical history,  insurance card, etc. Unlike in the U.S., medical records are portable. You can take them from doctor to doctor to specialist to hospital.

If you are like me, those records are scattered over several files in a couple of file boxes. If you are like me, you are going to gather and organize all of those medical records and then you are going to put them in what Dr. Gordillio calls a “go-to bag.”

This is something many Mexicans learned the hard way during the earthquakes in Mexico City.

You need all of your necessities in one bag, ready to go in an instant. Not just your medical records. You need insurance information, contact information, a cache of cash, or other means to pay your medical bills. 

That’s right, cash. Hospitals want an upfront fee (cash or credit card) or deposit. It is just how things work here. Even if you have insurance, you can get reimbursed later. 

Also in that bag should be – if you want it – a “do not resuscitate” letter. This is a directive to medical staff to not go to extraordinary means to keep you alive in the event of a debilitating stroke or injury. It is called an advance directive. It should be signed, witnessed by two people, and notarized.

If your spouse/partner or doctor is aware of your wishes, they can accomplish the same directive but best to have the paperwork in order. The good news, you can change your mind at any moment before the plug is pulled.

It goes without saying, your chances improve if you have a spouse, partner, or friend in there battling for you. The reality is many in San Miguel are single and live alone. The doctors urge people to form circles of support – key friends or neighbors who can step in, know where all your medical information is located, and fight for your care, act on your behalf, as you will do for them.

There are also several patient advocate companies in San Miguel which provide support for a fee.

San Miguel’s medical community is robust for a city of its size, the doctors say, but chances are patients will need to travel to Queretaro, Guanajuato, Leon, or Celya for special needs – like neural surgery, strokes, and heart operations. Many San Miguel doctors also have practices and connections in these cities.

Dr. Maxwell recalls the time when specialized care meant patients took “life flights” back to the United States. That rarely occurs anymore. Regionally, we are as well equipped and qualified as any spot in the U.S.

Even better, says Dr. Lim, in that there is no barrier between doctors here and their patients. No staff to filter out your needs. Doctors here will give you their e-mail, texts, phone number, WhatsAp,p and other means of direct contact.

But don’t abuse it. Don’t ask for medical analysis and treatment over the phone. Don’t call your doctor at 2 a.m. because of an ache you’ve had for four days. Don’t call for things that should be handled in person. Don’t expect your doctor to answer your call when he or she is with another patient or making hospital rounds.

One last tip: People who get up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom should take their cell phones with them. Slipping and falling on a bathroom floor at night is distressingly common – as is finding yourself immobile on the floor. All the numbers on your speed dial will do you no good if the phone is in another room.

Keep it handy at all times.

This was the first of many Biblioteca forums to come on a wide variety of topics, including possibly one on independent living and managed care facilities in San Miguel.

Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Once seen …

The four good sisters were walking in tight black-and-white formation up Calle Ancha de San Antonio on Friday, Sept. 23, 2022, around 9 a.m.

That’s it. Nothing more to it. They just made me feel like smiling. Who wouldn’t smile at seeing a happy scrum of nuns?

I thought they were headed into a scrum with the tourist cluster headed down the sidewalk, but they stayed their formation and the visiting team blinked.

I’m sure pleasantries were exchanged by all. That’s just the way it is in Magical San Miguel.

Seen on Calle Cuna de Allende

Flower power along the busy Calle Cuna de Allende, next to the Parroquia de San Miguel de Arcangel in Centro.

In the doorway of El Alcazar restaurant and hotel, a couple painstakingly added real roses to the living floral doorframe.

Who wouldn’t want to walk through such a door on their way to dinner? Be it ever so fleeting an experience.

The gorgeous frame was created on Friday and gone by Monday.

Several doors down, this floral frame at Uri Zatarin Art Gallery was built to last, out of silk flowers. It was still there on Monday evening, as beautiful as ever.

Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

The Queen of the Night makes a stunning appearance, her reign so tragically short

The Night-Blooming Cereus is putting on quite a show in our Colonia San Antonio courtyard tonight.

One night only, folks. By morning these beauties will be withered old crones, bereft of the intoxicating scent currently filling our home.

Rose spotted the — what shall we call it? — the chrysalis of the Cereus earlier this afternoon. Raul our gardener was just as excited to see them — there are two. We missed the blooming of several of the cactus flowers earlier.

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photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

And there is it … bloom!

Parque Juarez, with its countless shades of green, sometimes surprises.

This one was a stunner, to me.

A bougainvillea, alone among the carefully parsed trees and bushes, backlit by the late afternoon sun.

It was as if on fire, a brilliant fuschia fire.

Life in San Miguel de Allende is forever magical.

When you least expect it to be.

photography, Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Oceans. Just oceans.

The view along the Cliff Walk in Newport, Rhode Island. Besides the ocean and rocky shore, you can look at the backsides of fabulous summer homes built by robber barons back in pre-tax eras. Enormous marble and granite edifices that were only used during summer’s High Season. The one to the left was used in filming “The Great Gatsby” back in the 1970s. I lived in Newport then.

A reader pointed out yesterday that my blog post on flowers which included some from Cape Cod and Newport, Rhode Island, was sorely lacking, in his opinion.

He essentially asked, How can you post pictures from these two places and not include a single ocean view?

In the writer’s own words, “No cape or Newport ocean in site.”

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Flowers. Just flowers — but from San Miguel de Allende, Cape Cod, and Newport

In San Miguel de Allende, we call this the rainy season.

Many days, the clouds will roll in during the afternoon and by 5 p.m. or so, there will be rain, thunder, and lightning.

It is happening right now as I write about it. A little early in the day, 1:30 p.m. but nobody ever complains about the rain.

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Clouds. Just clouds.

Sometimes, you just have to go with the material that is right in front of you.

Today, it is nothing more than clouds.

Just clouds.

“You should see the clouds,” Rose calls out to me. I am in my favorite chair, in a cool dark room, battling ignorance and mean people on Twitter. “They’re really beautiful.”

She is right. Rose knows her clouds.

Big beautiful fluffy, floating, languid, lazily hithering and dithering clouds.

Not “looks like rain” clouds. Not trouble-ahead clouds. Not massive gray-dark sheets of roiling angry wetness.

Just legions of marshmallow clouds floating over San Miguel de Allende on a summer’s afternoon.

The kind of clouds in which you can see famous faces, clowns, ghouls, horses, funny dogs, dragons, elephants, and cars.

The kind of clouds for which soft fields of grass were created, so you could lie on your back and see famous faces, clowns, ghouls, horses, funny dogs, dragons, elephants, and cars.

The kind of clouds that inspired Joni Mitchell to write “Both Sides Now.”

The kind of clouds that John Constable painted in sprawling vistas like “The Hay Wain” and “Wivenhoe Park.”

Where would poets be without clouds? Looking at you, Percy Bysshe Shelley.

Maybe they are the same clouds, just recycled two centuries later?

Still hanging around, but posing now for iPhones.

Or, the kind of clouds under which young people fall in love and old people fall into reminiscing.

The kind of clouds for which the word “chiaroscuro” was invented.

Nobody can say that, back in the day, they had better clouds than these.

I’ve seen the evidence.

The best clouds ever — and always — are the ones that capture your imagination for a moment, just before morphing into whispy cotton candy swirls.

Timing is everything with clouds.

Pull your head up out of your cell phone, your busy works, your depression, your self-obsession, your shoe gazing — and look up.

Don’t let a day go by without observing the clouds, no matter how many or how few.

Don’t compare them to clouds past. That is not why they are here.

This is no cloud fashion show.

Clouds appear because they are trying to tell us something.

Seek out their shapeshifting secrets.

Learn their names, understand their reasons.

Follow the shadows they cast upon the ground.

You won’t find a pot of gold.

Maybe something better.



Put more magic in your life!

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Rants and raves, Uncategorized, Writings

Things that happen — or don’t — when your debit card dies and goes to finance heaven

Thirty things I can not do — according to the 876 e-mails that I just deleted — now that my only debit card has been hacked and terminated by my bank:

  1. Buy tickets for the San Miguel chamber music festival’s new season.
  2. Help the Democratic Party defeat the existential threat to democracy that is the Republican Party by donating to 73 candidates for various state and national offices who are currently soliciting me for funds to continue their campaigns.
  3. Take advantage of the special discount being offered by several companies on photo-printed coffee cups, T-shirts, and aprons – and of course, photo books.
  4. The latest one-day-only Kindle book deal of the century! Just for me!
  5. Free shipping – for today only! – on lots of stuff that I don’t need, never wanted, and didn’t ask for.
  6. A 50 percent discount on New Yorker magazine. Ends very, very, very soon!
  7. Twenty-five percent off all personally designed birthday and thank you cards. Extended offer! This won’t last forever. Why are you hesitating? Surely you know somebody with a birthday coming up soon.
  8. Pay my New York Times subscription which has detected a problem with my current method of payment and even after some 30 years as a subscriber has no desire to cut me some slack.
  9. Take advantage of Kayak’s and Skyscanner’s alerts on the price of airplane tickets to Boston, Providence, San Diego, Sacramento, and Reno. Prices going up very soon! maybe in the next few hours! Don’t hesitate!
  10. The last chance to book car rentals at soon-to-go up prices for the just mentioned cities. 
  11. Last chance (again) to get a New Yorker subscription (which I already have) – save 86% on the cover price! (Lots of these. Lots and lots and lots. The equivalent of the inserts that tumble to the floor when you open a magazine.)
  12. An opportunity to get summer fun flexibility by booking a Lake Tahoe vacation rental NOW!
  13. Invitation to donate to Alex’s GoFundMe account. (Who is Alex? I don’t know.)
  14. PayPal has selected ME to apply for its exclusive credit program and they are giving me $40 off future purchases – if only I could.
  15. Last chance to get $50 off certain health and ancestry deals with 23andMe, now that they have a chunk of my DNA sample and personal data.
  16. Today only’s special 40 percent-off deals from Amazon. Is this a duplicate? Is this a repeat? It sounds sooooo familiar….
  17. Purchase the perfect bra from Natori.
  18. Use the limited-one-time-only special credit from Uber Eats.
  19. The last chance to have my gift matched at several non-profit fund-raisers.
  20. Migrate e-mails to a new cloudHQ email address.
  21. Save 20 percent on Rick Steves travel bags.
  22. A free trial on internet-based security cameras.
  23. Incredible deals, this week only, at La Comer supermarket.
  24. Starbucks: Become a member, win incredible prizes!
  25. Renew my now-discontinued Prime subscription. Only days left to do so.
  26. Watch the 88 best movies on Netflix — which will soon discontinue my subscription when my next monthly payment comes due if I don’t cough up some dough and replace my credit card with one that works.
  27. Only one day left to take advantage of the clearance program that will enable me to by-pass airport security lines and stick my nose up at the hoi-polloi.
  28. A chance to bring someone I love for free on Amtrak’s limited-time-only two-for-one hot summer deal. Seriously hot. As in, this is one hot summer and the AC on Amtrak sucks.
  29. Unlock Expedia’s rewards benefits.
  30. Win a custom-designed Airstream trailer and Ram 1500 truck from Omaze.

I also can not:

Pull pesos out of an ATM machine. 

Order a new book from Kindle.

Pay for a meal in a restaurant.

Buy a case of wine.

Load up on dwindling medications.

Get U.S. dollars when I fly to Boston today.

Pay for a hotel room.

Pay for the rental car I reserved a month ago

Pay for gas when I drive to Rhode Island.

On the other hand:

I can sit and read a book

I can write to people

I can call family on the phone and chat

I can sit in the courtyard and ask the birds how they managed before the Internet.

I can turn off, tune out, and drop out.

I can go for a long walk in the countryside.

I can sit in the Jardin and listen to Mariachi bands as the sun sets.

I can sit on the roof terrace and watch the sunset.

I can count the church bells and make sure they are keeping proper time.

Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Waddup? Nuttin, you? Nada. So, howzabout a cat and cacti picture then? Cool. And some dancing girls.

“The Cat in the Cacti” was one of my favorite Dr.Seuss books to read to my sons when they were toddlers. They did not grow up confused, but I did. Still am, I guess.

You want to hear about how my IT wizard supercharged my streaming media speed so that I can actually watch a movie uninterrupted (sometimes) off my FireStick?

Nah. Me neither.

How about the coming Sriracha shortage because drought conditions in northern Mexico are killing off the chiles harvest and the hot-sauce factory has closed?

You already know that one, huh?

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