How can you tell if a parade is about to break out in San Miguel de Allende?
Sadly, if you are a gringo, you’re probably the last to know. Parades and processions, for the most part, are cultural. You may not be connected to the network that announces such things. So, pay attention. Follow these tips and you may end up on the sidewalk watching one of the most unique and exciting things to happen in this city.
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That must have been some party.
Early this morning, the limpia crew was all over the square in front of the Parroquia de San Miguel de Arcangel with brooms, buckets, and tanks of water. The bucketers would scoop and splash water on the stones and the sweepers descend on the water like hungry birds, sloshing it left and right, until only clean damp stone remains.
Splash and repeat. In the early morning breeze. The first in what feels like months.
While this is cleaning writ large, all over San Miguel de Allende in the morning, women (mostly) wash the sidewalks and streets in front of their homes. Same routine — water, bucket, and broom — as they have been doing for centuries.
Why the public square on a Sunday morning? I can’t say.
A messy party? Too much spilled and melted ice cream? Too much dust? In anticipation of the arrival of a wedding princess or social media queen? Simple hygiene?
You just never know, do you?
Unless you ask.
But why spoil the fun?
Hussong’s Cantina on Ruiz Street in Ensenada, Baja, is one of those checklist places that anyone from San Diego had to visit at least once.
An original Caesar salad in Tijuana (or one of the more unsavory attractions), a margarita at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, a stop for lobster and a pitcher of margaritas in Puerto Nuevo, and a night at Hussong’s, ebbing and flowing with the tide of drunken masses.
Now that was a pretty good weekend.
Hussong’s was unique among cantinas. It wasn’t artificially constructed as some faux Mexican fantasy to pull in the tourists with campy decor and T-shirts. Hussong’s holds liquor license No. 2 in Ensenada and is in the same building John Hussong bought and gussied up in 1892.
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Celebrations are breaking out all over San Miguel this week. Cinco de Mayo, Mother’s Day, the Red Cross anniversary, the religious Celebration of the Cross, and even the Locos/Crazies begin to honor their patron saint.
Or, you could just go bird-watching. There is that.
I’m guessing the performance of the week will be pianist Théo Fouchenneret and the deal of the week will be The Rondalla Señorial of the University of Guanajuato (free). The most poignant performances will be by the many wonderful musicians coming together to remember their comrade Tony Duncan.
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It is a great time to be alive in San Miguel – and rummaging through flea markets, art bazaars, Sunday and Tuesday markets. We have a few of them listed for this week.
Meanwhile, the forecast for fireworks is strong on Friday, May 3, as construction workers get their own religious celebration – not quite a holiday as they still must work – but crosses will be affixed to the highest points on projects, a meal will be served at lunchtime, and … fireworks!
Speaking of fireworks, musician Doug Robinson brings together an impressive gang of musicians for what has to be the musical event of the week — if not the month. And that’s on May 4.
The horse jumping continues at Otomi and the running of the Kentucky Derby offers another great excuse to gather, bet a few bucks, and drink syrupy cocktails. We have only one fundraiser here, tied to the Derby. But I’ll bet many a sports bar will welcome your patronage. Print out the recipe for Mint julep and bring it with you.
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Tough luck if you are over the age of, let’s say16, but a lot of this week’s events are geared toward children. With good reason: The last Saturday in April is Mexico’s National Day of the Child.
If you have kids or know families with young children, consider being a fairy godmother or godfather for a day and get them to some of these wonderful events. (Cover the cost of the tickets, godmother!)
Meanwhile, of course, there really is a lot going on for the rest of us. There is a prestigious horse jumping event and the 50 Best Bars in North America will be named in a splashy ceremony. Do not try horse jumping and bar hopping at the same time. Leave that to the professionals.
Continue readingLet me start the week by saying, dawg, I’m tired. It may be the hyper-awareness of a birthday of a certain age that came and went last week but really drove home the point: I have had way too many birthdays in my life.
And that realization leads to another realization: I’m tired.
All of this is to say that as I was putting this calendar together Saturday night, I reached a point where finishing this thing wasn’t going to happen on deadline. So, on Sunday, I updated this page with a half-dozen more fun things for you to consider.
And as always, send your ideas and events to robertj.hawkins2012@gmail.com. Thanks for playing along!
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It’s a promising week when an eclipse of the sun is not really the best thing happening in San Miguel de Allende. I mean, you can’t even look directly at it unless you are a former president of the U.S. or you have special glasses.
What fun is that?
Well, it could be some fun even though we’re on the “partial” side of the path. Just, you know, take care of your own eyeballs. So you can see what else is coming up this week.
There is a lot to be excited about — boxing, bullfighting, classic movies and plays, crazy good singers and musicians, a Jerry Rife photography exhibition (see photo above), and a burlesque show that includes the Mexican Elvis — El Vez. (Don’t tell me you’ve never heard of El Vez. Oh, come on!) The ones doing all the burlesque are Moscato Sky, Carmen Caliente, and Ruby Mimosa — and with names like that, baby you know you want a front-row seat.
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I tried my idea for global peace on a few people in the crowd today as we waited for the Exploding Judases to commence.
“What if all across the United States people had a day like this where you could hang effigies of your enemies and other bad people — and watch as they were blown to bits?”
“Just think of the catharsis!”
How to begin to describe the strange looks that I got. …
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If you haven’t been, you owe it to yourself to go see the Exploding Judases, today, Sunday, at noon. Go sooner and get a close-up look at the lifesize papier mache figures that will be blown to smithereens. You may even recognize one or two! You may even want to project a name or two of your own onto the more anonymous ones.
Frankly, the pyrotechnics signal the end of High Season, that semi-sad time of year when the season begins to change, to heat up and get really really dry, and all that money changes course and begins to flow back north to the United States and Canada.
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Musings, Magic, San Miguel and More 