photography, Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende

Painted ladies of San Francisco

Walking along San Francisco’s waterfront, something about this row of fishing boats struck me as familiar.

Of course, I realized, this is the aquatic complement to the iconic Victorian “painted ladies” across from Alamo Square Park. Every spindle of tourist postcards in San Francisco has one of the “painted ladies.” They are as well-known as the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Coit Tower, and the homeless sleeping in Tenderloin doorways.

There are colorfully painted Victorians all over San Francisco but this row is by far the most iconic.

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Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Thoughts while returning to Mexico during the cartel ‘crisis’

The death of El Mencho at the hands of the Mexican military reached me in San Francisco as I was packing for my flight to Leon.

We’ve had enough cartel leaders captured and killed to know what follows.

Roads get blocked, buses and cars get torched, OXXO stores go up in flames.

It is the same thing every time. Which made me wonder two things:

  1. Why doesn’t the government anticipate the cartel response and preemptively shut them down?
  2.  Why OXXO stores?

I suspect the whole take-out-the-bad-guy and watch them burn an OXXO or two has been ritualized over the decades. I imagine the back-channel negotiation sounds like this: “We kill your guy, and you can torch some stuff. Show you are still the boss. Have you considered OXXO stores? There are tons of them.”

The whole thing becomes a one- or two-day outburst. The government gets its quarry, the cartel gets to vent, and the media gets its photos and videos of burning cars and buses. Win, win, win.

The alternative would be open warfare or guerrilla skirmishes that could last for weeks. And believe me, the tourism industry and resorts, largely financed by the cartels, do not want that.

Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes was a big deal, the most violent and ruthless leader in all of Mexico. When his Jalisco New Generation moves into new territory, it always comes with a bloody message. They borrowed the concept from the U.S. – shock and awe. The body count is high and feels indiscriminate.

JNG has spread through much of Mexico, so it is no surprise that there were at least 85 roadblocks reported by Sunday evening. By Monday, 30 cartel members were dead, as were 25 National Guard soldiers, and one civilian.

Importantly, the military was able to track down a close associate of El Mencho, his chief financial officer, who was coordinating the protests. He, too, was killed. On Sunday. That’s quick work for any country.

That may explain why things were rather quiet on Monday.

By the time I got to Oakland International on Sunday evening, flights to Guadalajara were back on the board, albeit delayed. There were no cancellations to other Mexican cities that I could see.

There were certainly no-shows. My Volaris flight was less than one-third full.

The airport in Leon was filled with people coming and going when we arrived at 5 a.m. I walked around as my driver waited fruitlessly for what turned out to be some of the no-shows. What I didn’t see was a military presence. No local police officers or private security agents, either. 

Kind of surprising since Leon is now considered New Generation turf.

Neither were there military details posted along the 90-minute drive to San Miguel de Allende. My driver, who can shuttle to the airports in Leon and Queretaro as many as four times in a day, said that Sunday was business as usual.

None of the half-dozen OXXO stores we passed were burned up, although I heard rumors that one was torched in downtown Leon. 

In San Miguel de Allende, a lot of places were closed on Sunday, including the main mall. A curfew was in effect on Sunday. A fire at an older mall was thwarted and quickly extinguished. Bus lines didn’t run. Schools and banks were closed on Monday.

Tuesday came in the most normal way. I walked Moppet, the Belizean philosopher dog. Ran into two friends having coffee at the Italian bakery, stopped to listen to musician Frad as she busked in front of another bakery, and later encountered two old friends in Wolf’s Gym, where I am preparing for my fall French Camino.

Afterward, I walked up to Comer, the major grocery store in SMA. The only thing unusual to report is that I was able to walk right up to a register and check out, without waiting. Trust me, at Comer, that is huge.

From Comer, the Uber driver said that business has been a little slow, but this was a Tuesday. He lives in Celaya but drives in San Miguel because – though smaller – we have more tourists and gringos and tip better.

There are a few things that struck me about this event. 

  1. There were an extraordinary number of fake AI-generated videos and images distributed with alarming speed – faster than the truth.
  2. Cars and buses on fire generate massive amounts of smoke and make great news photographs. But they are, in the end, only buses and cars.
  3. From what I can find, one civilian died in all this. ICE has killed more people in the U.S.
  4. Mexico is taking care of its business. El Mencho was a vicious character. If the U.S. supplied intel, then bravo. But it needs to respect Mexican autonomy and territory.
  5. The last time a cartel this powerful was knocked down, it splintered into smaller groups and formed alliances with other cartels, which grew stronger.
  6. These cartels have distribution networks in all 50 states. Is ICE taking them down? I haven’t heard of any drug rings being broken up in the past six months.
  7. The cartels get their guns from the U.S. The U.S. gets its drugs from the cartels. Maybe the administration is looking at the wrong “porous border” when it goes after immigrants and refugees.
  8. Nothing much happened in San Miguel de Allende, but that does not mean we get off scot free.

JNG has been locked in a turf war with our local cartel, Santa Rosa de Lima, and from what I’ve been told, they now have footholds in Guanajuato, Celaya, and Leon.

It feels like we are being encircled. Like we’re next.

There have been cartel killings and dismemberments in the outer colonias, and bodies found on the outskirts of SMA. More than we care to openly acknowledge. Tourism, and all.

Santa Rosa has been around for a long time. They are entrenched. They are also entrenched, I’m told, maybe five blocks from where I live.

But I could not tell you in eight years that I have ever seen a cartel guy. Not surprisingly, they look just like all the other guys. That should give the U.S pause, if it decides to “invade” Mexico to take out cartels.

Almost all wars since Vietnam have been fought by people who look just like civilians. And they never end well for the uniformed troops.

In nearly eight years here, I have not once felt threatened, in danger, or concerned. There is crime. I know people who have been robbed at roadblocks and on the streets here. I know of stores and restaurants that closed rather than continue to pay protection money.

I just hope the U.S. gives Mexico a fighting chance. Eliminating the cartels through military action is going to be violent, bloody, and damned scary, especially if you are a tourist sunbathing out in front of a beachside resort when the hammer comes down.

What U.S. reporters might look at is the burgeoning middle class that is making its presence known all across Mexico. Other countries are investing billions in manufacturing, assembly, and distribution facilities all across Mexico. There are jobs, jobs, jobs. In the past, the choice may have been a bleak one, between cleaning resorts and cartels. No more.

I met a young woman recently at her parents’ tiny restaurant here in Colonia San Antonio. She had been a design engineer for Rolls-Royce in nearby Queretaro. Now she is an insurance executive and is helping her parents grow their business. The educated young have choices unheard of 10 years ago.

Prosperity may be the best weapon Mexico can wield against the cartels.

That, and the United States getting a grip on its drug use and weapons manufacturing.

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Rants and raves, Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Leiden sang, Aaronson painted — and the word for the night was ‘sublime’

It was only Leiden’s second or third song of the night, a ranchera – the music of love, passion, heartbreak, powerful emotions. Powerful music. In fact, it was the first ranchera she’d ever written.

“My father said to me,” recalled the Mexico City-based singer, “if you are going to sing rancheras, you have to suffer to feel it.” She paused and smiled slyly. “Now I have a degree in suffering.”

(And she does, a degree in sociology.)

“I not only can sing rancheras, I can create rancheras!”

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

An artist and a musician walk into a room and start talking — that’s Club Social San Miguel

What do you get when you put an artist with eclectic tastes into a room with a musician with eclectic tastes?

I don’t know, but why don’t you join me Saturday night and let’s find out together?

For the fifth time, Club Social San Miguel is uniting one amazing singer with one equally intriguing artist, and founder Sheree Boyer will kick off the conversation with the question, “What does your art mean to you?”

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fiction, Rants and raves, Uncategorized, Writings

A MIDNIGHT CULT CLASSIC IS BORN

Prediction: “Melania” will replace “Rocky Horror Picture Show” as the super-cult favorite in midnight screenings.

A new generation seeking a cult flick of their own will come in drag, with Russian spy accents, wearing iconic Melania outfits. Some — who can pull it off — will come dressed like Melania in the semi-naked private jet photos.

Fans will wave replicas of the Einstein green card with the ex-escort’s name on them. They will shout “Epstein” instead of “Einstein.” Some will carry dead roses in memory of the White House Rose Garden (aka parking lot patio).

They will throw popcorn when Trump enters the frame, and when Melania urges all to be caring and compassionate, the entire audience will scream, “I don’t care, do you?”

Popular songs that can be sung together include: “Roxanne” by The Police, “Killer Queen” by Queen, and “Prostitute” from Guns N’ Roses.

We, the management of the Bijou Theatre of Obscure Black and White Movies, welcome your suggestions. We urge you not to bring alcohol into the theatre — but a little weed is cool.

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Rants and raves, Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

In one night, Orquesta Sinfónica De San Miguel de Allende has changed the cultural landscape

San Miguel de Allende has its own symphony orchestra. Do you know what that means?

It is the central gem in our cultural crown.

The city, for its small size, sparkles with opera, chamber music, writers, painters, and poets. (You know the saying, “If you aren’t an artist when you move to San Miguel, you will soon become one.”)

For the longest time, we’ve gotten by on occasional fly-bys from big-city orchestras and the wonderful youth symphony adventures.

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Rants and raves, Uncategorized, Writings

So much BDE in the ICE

Big guns, tiny hands, but that should suffice,
Look at me, Momma, I’m a captain in ICE!
I was no fool, loved skipping school
But some B&E’s and cops said “not so cool!”

Army wouldn’t have me, nor would the cops
Neck and face tattoos kept me out of the business opps
So I played my video games and smoked crack
Took to cosplaying GI Joe — thinking I was so jacked.

Saw the posters recruiting for the new breed of ICE
Realized I could leap that low entry bar at least by twice
They gave me a flak jacket, face mask, and my choice of a gun
“Don’t worry about training, boy, go out and have fun!”

“Round up tan and brown folks, bust in a door
Make sure your iPhone is set to ‘record.’
Your memes are worth money on the ICE home page
Ain’t about justice; it’s about stoking the rage.”

With its $75 billion, ICE is recruiting society’s dregs
Building a private army of loyal zombies and bad eggs.
When the time comes, they will march into key cities and towns
And arrest all those obstructing liberal clowns.

The current horror show is just a diversion
While they plan for liberty’s ultimate perversion.
Don’t be fooled by tiny hands and big dick energy (BDE) today
The real goon squad is training for another January 6 foray.

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San Miguel de Allende, Writings

End animal suffering — one clinic at a time, that’s Rosey’s Wish

Some invitations are just too irresistible, like this one: Come join us out in the campo as we sterilize about 50 dogs and cats in the little community of San Antonio del Varal.

How could I say no to that?

The invitation came from Donna Lynes-Miller, the lifeforce behind Rosey’s Wish, a mobile veterinarian clinic on the front lines of the effort to reduce the number of abandoned and feral dogs and cats in San Miguel de Allende.

San Antonio Del Varal is a bit more than a half-hour away from, and a pleasant century or two behind, the city of San Miguel de Allende. An easy drive down the highway toward Queretero, and a sharp left onto a hard-packed dusty road that ends at the rancheria.

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Memoirs -- fact and fiction, Rants and raves, Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

What happens when your AI browser gets into the gummies: Perplexity in nine acts

Me, speaking into the Perplexity AI browser’s microphone: “How long is the French Camino?”

What Perplexity heard: “Hello, this is a test.”

What Perplexity replied: “Hello! Test received loud and clear. What’s on your mind?”

Me, a little perplexed with Perplexity: How long is the French Camino?”

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Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

This is just Wilde

“Life imitates Art far more than Art imitates Life” — Oscar Wilde in an 1889 essay.

.

In the avalanche of outrage and imagery pouring out of Minneapolis in the aftermath of the killing of Renee Nicole Good by ICE agent Jonathan Ross, one scene stood out to me, but not for reasons related to Good’s horrific shooting.

A video shows dozens of Minneapolis citizens sliding down an icy slope to join scores of other protestors on the far side of a wintry landscape.

Where had I seen this before?

I snagged a freeze-frame, and it took only minutes to recall.

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