Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Rites of passage in Colonia San Antonio

Today was an important one at the Parroquia San Antonio de Padua here in Colonia San Antonio.

Families brought their sons and daughters — boys in white suits, girls in white dresses — for the religious rites of first holy communion and confirmation. I am guessing it was for both, given the range of age and height of the children.

Your heart can not help but swell as you watch the families approach the church. The mothers, fathers, grandparents, and siblings surround the child in white — who is practically floating above the ground. They walk quickly toward the steps of the church where the children gather in white clusters as the parents sit on the walls nearby.

I have come to see these affairs as private family moments and am reluctant to run around taking photos — me the stranger, the gringo, in their midst. I no longer take photos unless I am encouraged or invited.

Today, my friend Jim Gramprie and I were walking up the Ancha toward Mercado Sano and this pickup truck pulled up beside us in slow-moving traffic.

How could you not smile?

I shouted “Felicidades!” and clapped my hands in case my Spanish was more horrible than I imagined it to be. They smiled and waved and shouted “Gracias!”

This happened three more times in the stop-and-go traffic and finally, I couldn’t resist.

“Con permiso, una fotografia?”

They were all for it. especially the two young ladies on their high thrones in the back of the family pick-up truck.

Traffic suddenly picked up and they were on their way — to a beautiful family fiesta, I imagine.

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Colonia San Antonio, San Miguel de Allende

UPDATE: No reprieve for Silveyra’s: Building’s ‘manager’ pockets cash, so owners boot all Colonia San Antonio building occupants

Latest update: Despite talks on Monday, April 15, owners held firm that all occupants of Callejon San Antonio #2 must vacate the building. All had been paying rent to an unscrupulous “landlord” who pocketed the cash for nearly a year.

Restauranter Keli Silveyra posted this on Facebook Monday afternoon:

“An end of an era 😢 The family that owns the spot has contacted us. They are looking at selling the location, and or renting it out to higher bidders It sounds like they have offers already. We will be getting our restaurant out as soon as possible. They were very very kind considering, money is money.”

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende

So, what’s passing by your front door today?

This is mine.

The Parroquia San Antonio de Padua is just a block away and you could hear the momentum building all morning — trance-dancing, church services shot out to the courtyard through loudspeakers, cohetes exploding overhead, church bells, primal cheers …

It builds and builds like a head of steam in a boiler until it all bursts out on Callejon San Antonio and dances, trips, oozes, roars, and flips down the street toward the main drag, The Ancha. Like festive lava flowing at a Mardi Gras party.

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende

Howlin’ Wolf

This photo has drawn a lot of attention on Facebook. I took it on January 25, from the upper balcony of the home of our friend Lorna Reutner. Lorna, Cat Silver, Rose Alcantara and I had climbed up to this airy perch in her Colonia San Antonio home for dessert and a little post-dinner wine and conversation.

Needless to say, the full Wolf Moon got our attention pretty quickly. All conversation stopped as we stood agape at the spectacle over San Miguel de Allende. What wasn’t lit artificially was set aglow by this moon.

I pulled my iPhone out and whipped off a few shots before returning to the table — shouldn’t be a rude guest, after all.

A photographer friend from the United States had a kindly suggestion: “Nice moonlight shot. Clean your lens well and you won’t get those streaks.”

Well, yes. Sometimes accidents are the best thing about photography. I don’t think it would have had the same impact if the image were nothing more than another iPhone full moon/pin-prick on the horizon.

I’d say this photo, streaks and all — Solar flares? Random refractions? — creates an emotionally accurate tableau. It is not exactly how it looked, but it is exactly how I felt looking at that moon.

But he’s right. I’ll try harder to keep my lens caps squeaky clean.

Future photographic accidents will be on purpose …

Beam me up, Scotty!

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende

Kids and combatants out in force to parade for Allende’s 255th anniversary

The city of San Miguel de Allende came out in force on Sunday to celebrate the 255th anniversary of the birth of Don Ignacio Allende y Unzaga, hero of the Mexican Revolution of 1810.

The city, through its Directorate of Culture and Traditions, has presented a slate of civic and cultural events in honor of the birthday that will culminate in a huge fireworks display tonight.

The most visible of all these events is the traditional Great Military and Civic Parade which started around 10:30 a.m. and marched through Centro, down Zacateros, up the Ancha, and terminated on Cardo.

(Click on any image to enlarge it.)

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Catrina grand finale

Don’t go looking for her. She is gone. I’m glad I stopped to make her acquaintance before heading next door to Cafe Murmullo to meet friends for breakfast.

In the time it took me to down waffles piled high with blackberries and raspberries with a drizzle of strawberry compote and two cups of chai latte, she was gone.

Women like that, so fickle. Here one moment, big hat and bangles. Gone the next.

Maybe next year. Same time, same place?

I will wait for her. Grateful for what little time we had together. (About five minutes this morning, to be honest.)

Meanwhile, the murals remain, of course. In the entrance to Instituto Allende on Calle Ancha de San Antonio 22. And they are beautiful. Are they not? Stop by and peek in the door. Murals are meant to be seen and appreciated.

Catrinas, too. But their time is short.

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Colonia San Antonio, San Miguel de Allende

Death becomes us this time of year

Parque Principal this morning where overnight the marigolds were hung with care in hopes that our ancestors’ spirits soon would be there.

Marigolds are everywhere in San Miguel de Allende this time of year. They are like a homing beacon for our departed loved ones. It is how we let them know we welcome their spirits back for a short visit. It is how we let them know that we have not forgotten them.

The marigolds are on ofrendas — the altars we build to remember our deceased loved ones and family. They are in our parks. and other public gardens. They hang from door frames of businesses and homes.

This year, the spirit of Dia de Muertos seems to be embraced more than ever. The list of events in hotels, restaurants, public squares, and cantinas is staggering. Everybody is in on the action and it seems to be working. The visitors are swarming to the city.

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Re-birth of the Calla Lily

Late last night as the light drizzle kissed the courtyard foliage, a lone Calla Lily peeked its chaliced bloom through the broad green leaves.

It has been dormant for some time, so this was a delightful surprise as has been this late season rain.

The beaded drops upon the velvety white bloom were irresistible. As dark as the night happened to be, I had to risk taking a shot. It seems to have worked out okay.

I read that the Calla Lily in Mexico is associated with death and funerals and in Greek and Roman times with festivities. How appropriate as we approach Dia de Muertos. The flower’s symbolism serves our times and culture well.

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende

Happiest parade in San Miguel de Allende

You’re carrying a big and colorful star on a stick that you can wave and twirl to cheering crowds while surrounded by insanely peppy music and joyfully crafted mojigangas.

How can you NOT smile and laugh as you bounce up and down on the streets of San Miguel?

This is the Reseña de La Alborada de Estrellas — a preview to an even bigger and happier parade coming next weekend, at 3 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 30.

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Colonia San Antonio, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Encore for the Queen

Some of the literature says that the cactus known as Queen of the Night (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) blooms only once or twice a year but if that is the case, we may need to rewrite the book.

Our Queen just does not want to leave center stage.

That is the endearing attraction of this ivory bloom: It opens up one night in a spectacular display and with the morning’s light, all that remains is a drooping shallow resemblance of its formerly glorious self.

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