Today’s celebrations of San Miguel Arcangel only theoretically started at 3 a.m. They have been running non-stop for the past week here in San Miguel de Allende. All through last night, the sounds of music and fireworks drifted over the moon-kissed night skies from all directions.

At 3 a.m., the Alboradas converged on the plaza in front of the Parroquia San Miguel de Arcangel. These are the colorful giant twirling stars — one of the happiest sights you’ll see as processionaires dance and twirl their way into the square with marching bands and mohigangas in tow.

Only an hour later, this joyful celebration turned into a battle between Good (St. Michael) and Evil (NO … not that one. Satan!) That’s a good hour’s worth of fireworks being shot across the plaza over the Jardine Principal. Naturally, the troops of St. Michael fire from the Parroquia. Satan’s minions take cover in front of the government buildings on the opposite side of the plaza.

Irony? What irony?

Of course, I divined all this from the comfort of my bed in Colonia San Antonio and prior years’ experience.

What I did experience today was the blessing of the horses and vaqueros and vaqueras riding them. Some 1,500 in all, according to the procession’s leader. The blessing came with a full Mass as horses and riders crowded patiently into the square.

This was to be followed by the exploding dolls — papier mache figurines no more than three feet tall, which are mounted atop poles to which gifts have been attached. Of course, the figurines are filled with fireworks, and when they explode, the packages rain down with paper body parts, and kids scramble for them all.

But wait, there’s more.

There was indigenous dancing scheduled, and if my ears don’t deceive me, the propulsive beat of big tub drums is rocketing out of the square right now.

This is followed by the arrival of the procession bearing Xuchiles and Animas. Xuchiles are colorful mural-like compositions of flowers and corn husks, which first marked the end of war during the Spanish conquest period. Animas are the souls that accompany the platforms.

They are mounted on posts and fencing around the entrance to the Parroquia and are left up for well over a week. If you are in town, do get down to see them. They are intricate works of wonder and devotion.

The night will conclude with — what else — more fireworks — at 9 p.m. Workers have been reloading the towers that hold spinners and flashers and gewgaws and bursting flare-ups of giddiness that go off while rockets red glare and bombs burst in the air.

Holy hell! Good thing the good guys won the heavenly combat.

All is not lost, if you’ve missed everything up until now.

On Sunday at 10-11 a.m., there will be more indigenous dancers parading into the public square for a day of traditional ceremonies and dance. Of special note, Comonfort’s highly authentic and exhilarating tribe, Danza Guamares, is headlining.

Cheer up. This isn’t over.

The massive celebration for Day of the Dead is already gearing up. And Christmas decorations have been in the local supermarkets for more than a month now.