Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende

Welcome to Dia de Muertos: Any ofrenda mine is an ofrenda yours

The family ofrenda, created by Rose Alcantara.

Tonight in the public park (The Jardine) there will be scores of kids in costume, each carrying a satchel or plastic pumpkin. Arrayed around the park will be ex-pats with bags full of candy.

The twain shall meet.

Halloween is becoming bigger every year, much to the consternation of the grumpiest among us. Perhaps rightly so, there is some concern that the holiday will dilute Mexico’s own customs.

Continue reading
Standard
photography, San Miguel de Allende

Living it up for the Day of the Dead

The Catrina face-painting tag team, Efrain Gonzalez and Laura Cerroblanco, launched their season with a party on Friday at Restaurante Lolita at Salida a Celaya #52.

It was a chance to learn a little about Dia de Los Muertos, watch the dynamic duo paint some faces, hear some fine music from Gabriela Espinosa and Sharon Itoi, enjoy a dinner prepared by Chef Fernando Guarneros, and reconnect with some old friends and make some new ones.

Continue reading
Standard
photography, San Miguel de Allende

The face is familiar ….

We love our mojigangas.

The tall, human-fueled street puppets have been around San Miguel de Allende since 1924. They are of as many varieties as there is of life.

They can be comic, satirical, political, nuptial, magical, tragic, whimsical, mystical, surreal, fantastical, scary, devilish, angelic, familiar, historical, sexy, skeletal, ethnic, gypsies, tramps and thieves, and even, ordinary.

Like those images above from a recent parade in San Miguel.

Continue reading
Standard
photography, San Miguel de Allende

Skull sessions

The door frames of San Miguel de Allende grow oranger and more elaborate by the day, like this one on Hernandez Macias.

It is that time of year. The skeletons in our closets find their way to the streets of San Miguel de Allende.

Not those skeletons.

These are more literal.

Continue reading
Standard
photography, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Revelling in those wide open spaces

We once lived in a house that had a 360-degree view of San Miguel de Allende from the rooftop.

We still live in the house but the view is mostly gone.

In its place is a three-story condo project that wraps around the two sides facing Centro, the Parroquia, and the sunrise. It would be oppressive were it not for the chiffon yellow paint job. Chiffon yellow tends to soothe.

At any rate, this picture is not about that.

This picture was taken many blocks away on the top floor of the Posada de Las Monjas hotel on Calle Canal. Twice a week I climb the Escher–like staircases to the top to take Pilates. The walk to the studio is almost as grueling as the class. But obviously worth it.

And I’m not just saying that because the instructor is my wife, Rose Alcantara.

This is the view from the studio.

On Monday , we were expecting a late-season shower. The clouds to the West looked promising. They apparently had business elsewhere. All we got were sprinkles.

And a spectacular view.

Standard
Reviews, San Miguel de Allende

Wall to wall art, as far as the eye can see

Art is best left to describe itself.

I’m a firm believer in that.

But I also believe you should let people know where they can find the cool stuff. This, for example.

The beauty of San Miguel de Allende is that you find art everywhere, often in the most unexpected places.

Especially murals.

Continue reading
Standard
Memoirs -- fact and fiction, photography, San Miguel de Allende, Scotland - West Highland Way, Writings

Hiking the West Highland Way: Day 5, the cinematic splendor of it all

My hiking companions Brian Connors, Susan Shors, Kim Scholefield, and my beloved Rose Alcantara set off to discover their own infinite possibilities this morning.

If Van Morrison had taken the walk with me today from Inverernan to Crainlarich, he’d surely want to write a song about it. He’s not a Scot, sure, but I think he’d get it in his Celtic heart. Titles like “A Sense of Wonder,” “Into the Mystic,” “In the Garden,” and even “Cyprus Avenue” were in rotation in my head as I walked beside the River Falloch.

This was a gentle one — thank God, after yesterday — no rock piles to climb, few inclines to surmount, no risk to life and limb.

Continue reading
Standard
photography, San Miguel de Allende, Scotland - West Highland Way, Uncategorized, Writings

Hiking the West Highland Way: On Day 1 we learn that everyone walks to the beat of a different drummer, and that is just fine

Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen. Distance: 12-13 miles. Level of difficulty: Child’s play.

How long did it take? Maybe less than a mile. No, easily less than a mile.

But, technically, I wasn’t lost.

I just didn’t know where I was headed.

And I did feel … what’s the word I’m reaching for? Ah, yes: Foolish.

Continue reading
Standard
San Miguel de Allende, The Week in SMA

SMA Events, Aug. 25-31: Woody is leaving, Angela’s back, party in the Jardin, fundraiser for chess prodigies — a peek at next month

Look, it’s not that I don’t love you. I do. I adore you. I love how you get out and make the most of all the wonderful things that make up San Miguel de Allende. Our relationship to date has been a bit one-sided. I get it. You’re busy. You don’t write. You don’t call. But that’s OK. You’re page views tell me I’m getting through.

It is just that, well, we need some time away from each other. Put it another way, I’m going away for a while. And where I’m going, you can’t reach me and I won’t be able to reach you. That’s just the way it is. Just the way it’s got to be.

We’ll always have Scotland.

Continue reading
Standard
San Miguel de Allende, The Week in SMA

San Miguel events, Aug. 18-24: Spend a day on the farm, check out cool cars, music, art, opera — just do it

Sunday, August 18

8 –10 a.m. OK, what’s a “botarga”?
I’ll tell you: It is a full-body costume often of a cute animal, vegetable, or a sports team mascot — or Spiderman and Deadpool. Put yours on, zip it up, and join the first Botargas Race at Plaza La Luciérnaga. Be your anthropomorphic best as you “Run, jump, and laugh.” Those are the rules. That’s all we’ve got. Registration is $100 pesos.

Continue reading
Standard