San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Help! I’ve fallen into reality and I can’t get up

 

 

“Have I tumbled out of reality or into it?” — Robert Cooksey, on Facebook.

Great question, Bob.

I think I know where he is coming from. My friend Bob lives here in San Miguel de Allende. Like him, I can not believe our good fortune to be living in such a place.

The flip side of that expression of gratitude is that we’ve both very happy to no longer be living in the United States. (I speak for Bob — up to a point — because he is so outspoken on Facebook about his dismay over the direction the country has taken since, oh, since November 2016 at least.)

But now I’m getting off-topic.

Well, OK, I’m going to say it: This is a magical city.

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Before the football season even begins, Deportivo San Miguel Leones faces elimination

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The Deportivo San Miguel Liones scrimmage fiercely on a recent Sunday. (Photo by John Bohnel)

Don’t let your handicap limit you. Don’t let your disability define you. You are everything you want to be and nothing that others think they see.

The footballers of Deportivo San Miguel know this. They believe this.

They live this.

They are the mighty Leones of the State of Guanajuato and in their four short years together playing on the national stage of Mexico, they have the hardware to prove it.  Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Hiking the Rio Laja to Antotonilco

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All it takes is to miss a turn and you end up on a quiet country road like this one, which leads to the long-ago abandoned hacienda Las Trancas, about midway into the first section of the trail and a fabulous spot from which to engage the river.

We did it! We found the off-road, Rio Laja trail from San Miguel de Allende to Antotonilco. Several weeks ago, when we walked to Antotonilco along the old highway it was pleasant enough but the road is narrow and pretty busy.

Here and there we’d catch glimpses of the chalky gray Rio Laja which flows south into the sprawling reservoir called La Pressa Allende. And here and there was evidence of a trail!

We’re still new at this hiking/walking thing and lacked the confidence to jump off the road and into the brush along a river we hardly knew. Who knew where we might end up? Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

The randomness of beauty in San Miguel

IMG_4863Beside the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel today, a stunning Mexican senorita stood regally, poised between a mule skinner and a cowboy. Her flowing crimson gown was equally a match to her own beauty and that of the Parroquia.

Had we stepped back in time? Was there a movie being shot?

A fashion shoot, at the least. Maybe the cover of a glossy magazine extolling tourists to visit old Mexico, through magical San Miguel de Allende. Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Curbing his enthusiasm

 

This little guy was sitting all alone this morning on Calle Hiernandez Macias, or so it seemed. Half a block down was his mother, sitting against a wall in the shade offering Chiclets to tourists.

He was bored enough to topple off the curb and into a pigeon pose in the street, before switching to an updog pose. Our little yoga master!

 

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Haircuts from the heart: A fresh start to the new school year from Hecho Hombre crew

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Hecho Hombre barbers cut a trio of youngsters at the community center Fundación Comunitaria Don Diego at Colonia Presa de la Cantera. Puma is behind him to the left and Nacho in back to the right.

This is how one thing leads to another.

I’m sitting in the barber chair in Hecho Hombre and Puma is warming up to bring my scrappy mange under control, my first haircut in months and it has become an embarrassing comb-over of the worst sort. The kind your uncle, the insurance guy, used to wear until he got that really bad toupe.
At the front desk, manager Nacho, the mustachioed son of Tijuana, is cueing up a song, a really good haunting, brooding, menacing song and I know it but I just can’t nail it down.
“Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds,” says Nacho.
“Ah, thanks,” says I. “Why do I know this one?”

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel: Where ever you may be, there it is

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Let the road lead you to where ever it may.

One sight around San Miguel de Allende that is inescapable — and delightfully so — is the curlicue confection-inspired spires of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel.

No matter where you walk, there it is: the pinkish-salmon spires of the city’s most iconic church. And, there, around it are the half-dozen aspirant church belfries and towers and domes.

The Parroquia is a big reason for San Miguel’s designation as a World Heritage Site and it is one of the most photographed churches in all of Mexico. And that is saying a lot. Churches here are like Starbucks in the United States, on every corner it seems. Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Then there were clouds

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Clouds are best after the nightly rain.

The rain arrived promptly at 6:45 p.m., courtesy of just one gray-black chunk of water-engorged atmosphere.

It was beautiful. Even if Moppit and I were caught out in the open.

It poured for all of 10 minutes, quickly turning the cobblestone roads into rivers and turning Moppit and me into a couple of drowned rats. (She is very hairy at the moment and looks much more like a drowned rat than me.)

Did I mention that repairs were started today on the roof to stop up a few leaks? Did I mention there are now way more than a few?

Getting drenched. Mopping up the floors. No problem.

Do you know why?

Clouds.

You can’t stay down when the clouds are this beautiful.

It is my favorite time, after the evening rain, because the sun hasn’t yet set and Old Sol, being the artist that he is, uses the clouds as the perfect canvases for the light and shadow show.

Appearing nightly on a mountainside near you, beautiful clouds of all sorts and dimensions. And making a special guest appearance for a few nights only — the moon.

I love San Miguel de Allende.

(Click on individual images to see full size.)

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Festival de Musica de Camara Master Class: Like boot camp for Beethoven

 

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The four members of the Dover Quartet listen intently as the Chroma Quartet performs a passage from Beethoven’s String Quartet No. 14, Opus 131 on stage in the Angel Peralta Theater on Saturday, Aug. 10, 2019.

I attended a master class this morning. And, no, it was not Malcolm Gladwell or Neil Gaiman writing, or Helen Mirren on acting, or Gordon Ramsey on cooking, or Steve Martin on comedy, or Spike Lee on moviemaking.

 

Surely your Facebook has been swamped with famous people wanting to teach you the secrets of their craft, through MasterClass.com. (I’m waiting for a “master class” on how to make the perfect pitch for a master class. Because they’re all good …)

Here’s the thing about master classes: By numerous definitions, they are taught by acknowledged experts in specific fields to highly knowledgeable or talented people in the same field. In other words, the best of the best passing along hard-won knowledge to the very people who are nipping at their heels, so to speak.

MasterClass.com has the first part right. Their teachers are awesome, with instant recognition in their fields. Who can sign up for their courses?

 Me. For one example. Maybe even you.

How does that make it a Master Class?  I am a master of none but slightly knowledgeable in many fields. For example, I can breeze through the Monday and Tuesday New York Times crossword puzzles. Maybe Wednesday, if I have the time. The rest of the week? Forget it.

 

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The four members of the Dover Quartet listen intently as the Chroma Quartet performs a passage from Beethoven’s String Quartet No. 14, Opus 131 on stage in the Angel Peralta Theater on Saturday, Aug. 10, 2019.

So, technically, a master class lifts the already elevated to the next level.

 

That is no mean trick, making the best and the brightest, even better and brighter.

But I saw a bit of that today. From the audience.

It really starts Friday night when the Dover Quartet gave a mercurial concert at the Angela Peralta Theater, here in San Miguel de Allende. The performance was part of the 41st season of the Festival de Musica de Camara.

The quartet dazzled the audience with an unexpectedly romantic and lyrical composition from Anton Webber, Beethoven’s career-defining String Quartet No. 2 (the one that blew Hayden off the Top 10 charts), and Dvorak’s stirring post-New World Quartet No. 14. All transitional, game-changing, pieces for the composers.

The Dover quad oozes charm, expressiveness, warmth, and fluidity. And not only their music. If you could see their faces as they perform you would melt from sheer unfiltered happiness. They are so expressive in their unspoken communications — nods, eyelid flutters, eyebrow lifts, head tilts — I started mentally writing cartoon captions for them:

 

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The Chroma Quartet performs a piece from Beethoven.

Camden Shaw, cello: “Steady as she goes, darlings!

 

Joel Link, violin: “Sweet transition, Milena “(Pajaro-van de Stadt, viola)

Bryan Lee, violin, to no one in particular: “Ah, bliss.

And such forth and so on. 

They like each other.

Saturday morning the four Dover musicians returned to that stage to conduct a public two-hour master class with the rising young stars of Chroma Quartet from Universidad Veracruzana. 

And one hour after the master class, the Chroma Quartet was on the steps of the Casa de la Cultura, near Parque Juarez, delivering a free concert of stunning verve and passion as part of the Music Under the Trees program, produced by the Festival.

Jeeze, what a great couple of days.

The Chroma four certainly qualify as “highly knowledgeable or talented people in the same field.” 

They have performed together since 2015 and recently finished a masters residency at the University of Victoria in Canada. Its members – Ilya Ivanov (violin / viola), Carlos Quijano (violin), Félix Alanis (violin / viola) and Manuel Cruz (violoncello) have taught their own share of master classes as well.

Now, where do they fit in the professional quartet hierarchy with the Dover Quartet?  Now, I am not qualified to say but using the broadest definition of “nipping at their heels,” I’d say catch them if you can because that would give you lots of bragging rights at some future festival. “Yes, I heard Chroma when the ink on their master’s degrees was still wet.”

So this masters class was on stage at the Angela Peralta and the front door was open. (No need to be crass. Yes, it was free to come and see.) The Festival pairs up its weekly headliners with up-and-coming talent on Saturday mornings for the edification of all.

And believe me, it is edifying.

From what I could see, here is how the master class works: the students begin to perform a pre-selected piece — in this instance, Beethoven’s String Quartet No. 14, Opus 131 — and … well … they don’t get very far.

Behind each performer stands their counterpart from the Dover Quartet and each has authority to halt production, point out some discrepancy and share an insight or two before the piece resumes. 

And, boy, did they have a lot to share.

I couldn’t even keep up in my little notebook, and keeping up with talkers is what I did for nearly 40 years.  “Use the dimension if you choose … there’s an innuendo happening here that like in the previous section … the audience expects a release here but Beethoven isn’t giving it to them … you need to fight against a natural tendency to speed up … you’re forcing the sound to get it a little louder …think about the length of it … one more time … when you have a long crescendo, think about what you want to do … each figure has its own shape … different types of crescendi within the same figure … dynamic surprises are easy to find … maybe you rushed it …volume and texture are really nice here …you’re so close, don’t over-tink it.

The torrent of observations is so rapid that sometimes the musicians eschew language for sing-song mimicry of a key passage.  “It is like this, da-de-de-deeee-de dah!”

Heads nod in assent. They get it. They’ve all been there.

As a member of the audience to this spectacle, my admiration grows immeasurably for the complexities that inhibit and inhabit of four musicians rolling that single jagged rock up the hill in unison.

The myriad details each musician must hold in his or her head while performing in some sort of unison with three other people is staggering. And Beethoven. He was the guy who famously responded “Not my problem” when musicians complained about the technical complexity of performing some of his compositions.

Then again, there is no way that the members of the Chroma Quartet could possibly absorb and internalize all of the data flowing in their direction at the speed of the superior knowledge of the Dover team. 

We sat and watch the Chroma performance being deconstructed even as they tried to play through it. 

And yet, it all comes around again as a whole and the elusive “fifth voice” begins to emerge, and rise, and hover just above the performers with a light all its own that spreads throughout the auditorium. It is the seemingly magical joining of four disparate instruments in such a bonded performance that it has a unique color, shape, phrasing, articulation, depth, resonance, and personality of its own.

It is the elusive essence that makes a quartet unique among the many many other quartets playing the same compositions. 

I don’t know what the Chroma Quartet got from this session. It was two hours out of a lifetime.

Most likely what they got can’t be adequately articulated. But it is there. Inside them. I’m willing to bet that the next time they sit to play Beethoven, that fifth voice will begin to emerge.

 

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Double-duty for the Chroma Quartet: Following the master class, they rushed over to the Planchas del Chorro,  below the House of Culture, to perform as stars of the Music Under the Trees series.

The Chroma Quartet had a chance to apply all that an hour later in the open-air concert on the Planchas del Chorro,  below the House of Culture. Unleashed from the “classroom” they plunged into a program that roared through time with pieces from Bach to Mozart, to Schubert to Paganini to modern times with Blas Galindo, Arturo Marquez, Eduardo Gamboa, and even a rearrangement of George Shearing’s jazz nugget “G & G.”

 

A perfect tour de force for an outside venue.

___   ___   ___   ___   ___   ___   ___

Next Saturday, Aug. 17, at 10 a.m., the Gryphon Trio will present a master class with Trio Naab from Mexico City. It is free. Stop in, buckle up, and get ready for the ride of your musical life.

Also, Chroma Quartet will no doubt return to San Miguel in the future. Possibly after the release in September of their first CD, “Chromaswing,” in collaboration with renowned jazz pianist Edgar Dorantes. I wouldn’t miss that performance for the world.

 

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Music Under the Trees is a free series put on every second Saturday at the Planchas del Chorro,  below the House of Culture, by the Festival de Musica de Camera.

Coda:

 

The young Buddhist postulant sat cross-legged on the cold stone floor of the temple, the very model of repose. His hands were clasped in his lap. His eyes were cast downward, while his posture was erect.

In front of him sat the old bikkhus, a Buddhist monk of many years, who came to this monastery as a child.  He was nose-to-nose with the postulant. His breath was smelly but he said not a word. Instead, he lit small firecrackers on the end of a string tied to a pole.

The postulant occasionally flinched but mostly he stayed deep in his meditation.

The old monk’s purpose was not to distract the young man from his daily meditation but to drive him deeper into it.

One day, when the young man was no longer young and no longer a postulant, he gained notoriety for sitting as still as a statue while a fierce battle for control of the monastery raged around him. Arrows flew in all directions, many with flames or gunpowder attached. 

The monk was untouched and unaware of the events surrounding him. 

I thought of this story this morning as I sat in the Angela Peralta Theater in San Miguel de Allende and watched members of the wonderful Dover Quartet conduct the two-hour master class with the rising young stars of Chroma Quartet from Universidad Veracruzana.

That is very much what the teachers were doing: Driving their pupils deeper and deeper into the Beethoven ethos until they are the masters of the realm.

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Going micro at El Charco del Ingenio

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A view of the opposite wall of the canyon from El Charco. One of the few “scenic” photos I allowed myself today.

A wise old friend once said, “If you really want to observe life in the desert, get down on your hands and knees.”

His point was, everything that goes on in the fissures and tiny patches of shade on the dessert floor is every bit as complex and magical as the sweeping vistas and craggy mountain ledges and canyons and arroyos.

And he was right, you know. Thanks, Bud Murphy, where ever you may be.

I was thinking about old Bud this morning as we hiked up to El Charco del Ingenio, the jardin botanico in San Miguel de Allende. Two weeks ago when we hiked up here, I was mesmerized by the big picture: beautiful trails, the Presa las Colonias, the ancient canyon below the reservoir dam, the vast diversity of central Mexico flora on display.

Today, it was different. In the intervening two weeks, the rains have returned. Everything is green and healthy. The reservoir is spilling over just enough water to activate some of the canyon waterfalls.

But my focus was on the extraordinary patterns and textures of many of the plants in the garden, especially the cacti.

So, here is some of what you find when you get down on your hands and knees and look deep into the biosphere. Click on each image for an expanded view:

 

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