I won’t lie to you, today was the toughest day of hiking I have ever experienced in my life.
And not just the first five miles, from St Jean Pied de Port to the cafe/hostel Refuge Orrison.
A lot of people want to stay at Orrison in France to break up the trek across the Pyrenees Mountains into Spain. The alternative is hiking the entire 24 kilometers to Roncevalles where the ancient monastery houses 238 weary pilgrims every night.
Being a mountain range, the Pyrenees offer plenty of ups and downs to the unsuspecting hiker. It also provides sudden drops in temperature and rain squalls. We got it all today.
When I reached Refuge Orrison, I did a smart thing: I paid eight euros to have my backpack shipped to my final destination. I don’t think I would have made it otherwise.
I’m in a terrifically comfortable dorm room with nice private beds in cubicles. The point is, I can barely keep my eyes open. Having had my first glass of wine in nearly two years is contributing to the torpor.
So, I’m just going to say that I made it and I hurt like crazy — and post some photos from the day.
Got to get up tomorrow and do it all over again.
On to Zubiri.
Unbelievable! Walk on, you must!! This is amazing! Great photos!!!
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Fantastic
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what is that postal looking machine in that photo?
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That is a sporting goods vending machine. You can buy walking sticks, socks, ponchos, hats, as you are leaving town.
Pretty convenient.
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WOW, Bob! I can’t imagine walking as you are, so soon after a L O N G flight. Not to mention capturing such lovely photos! Sending good vibes for tomorrow!
Sent from my iPhone
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Five miles doesn’t seem like a lot, until you factor in showers, the chill and gradient. I was surprised to see the route looked paved. On my hike, we were on the route by 915 with a brief lunch stop, very light. Then at hostel by 330. And then out for a full meal. Who are your companions? Ages? Using sticks?
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Hi Carl!
Yes, Day 1 is mostly small mountain roads for the first half. 60 percent paved. It verves off into the mountains and wooded trails. The last 4 km is a steep but gorgeous downhill skip through forest. The ground is carpeted in orange, yellow, and green leaves – like something out of “Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon.”
Today was mostly along wooded trails with views across the valleys — 77 percent trail. It passed through charming small villages with sidewalk cafes.
After Pamplona, my goal is to walk until about 2 or 3 pm then stop at the first available auberge.
The peregrinos span the ages. I just had a great discussion with a new high school grad who starts university so. He’s thinking of majoring in architecture and environmental law. “I want to do good and also make a living,” he said.
Another young woman left a job as an au pair for a Silicon Valley family and saved every dime to travel the world for a year, starting with the Camino.
Not many my age but there are clearly some.
Sticks? Absolutely. Same pair I got for my first Camino in Portugal and Spain.
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Insanely beautiful what you are doing in so many ways!!! So damn proud of the awesomeness and example you are to us all!! I think I will go do my 10 minutes of Pilates now!! Rock on!
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I remember those hard days when I hiked the West Highland Way in Scotland. It seems like you will never get to your destination, but somehow you do. Keep on Trekin’, Bob! You can do it!
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There were days on the West Highland Way when I was reluctant to reach my destination! Such a beautiful hike!
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Just catching up today on your posts. You’ve got this, Bob! Love the photos. Amused by the vending machine! Right up there with taking photos with a remote on my watch! Glad you have the “sticks.” Trekking poles were a game changer for me. They keep me upright. Just took delivery on my first new pair in 9 years. My former pair broke a fall for me last month, and in the process one of them snapped and took one for the team. Keep hiking!
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Crossing the Pyrenees with all those steep ups and downs is no joke, and paying those eight euros to ship your backpack was definitely money well spent. After hiking 24 kilometers through sudden rain squalls, sitting down with that glass of wine feels well earned, but the morning after can be brutal on stiff muscles.
Before you even get out of bed tomorrow to start off toward Zubiri, spend thirty seconds gently circling your ankles and flexing your feet while lying flat. It pumps fluid back into your knees and hips so your legs do not catch on that first step. Rest well tonight.
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