San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel: Where ever you may be, there it is

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Let the road lead you to where ever it may.

One sight around San Miguel de Allende that is inescapable — and delightfully so — is the curlicue confection-inspired spires of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel.

No matter where you walk, there it is: the pinkish-salmon spires of the city’s most iconic church. And, there, around it are the half-dozen aspirant church belfries and towers and domes.

The Parroquia is a big reason for San Miguel’s designation as a World Heritage Site and it is one of the most photographed churches in all of Mexico. And that is saying a lot. Churches here are like Starbucks in the United States, on every corner it seems. Continue reading

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Memoirs -- fact and fiction, Uncategorized

For the record, I did not attend Woodstock …am I the only one?

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See those people clustered around the blue Volkswagon microbus? None of them is me. The reason being that, given the choice of going to Woodstock or spending the weekend in a remote Pennsylvania forest, I chose the latter.

I was 19 the summer of the Woodstock music festival and lived less than 275 miles from the Bethel, N.Y. site of the concert that shaped my generation.

So, it is important to note, as the 50th anniversary begins today, that I did not attend Woodstock.

No freaking way. Continue reading

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

When you have to wait …

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The Umbrellas of Cherbourg hover above the courtyard at Paprika Restaurante.

So often we zip into Paprika Restaurante, catch a concert in the back or check for mail upfront. Then zip out again. Rarely do we slow down to appreciate the many layers of beauty which make up the interior space.

Tuesday, we were fortunate to attend a concert by violinist/composer David Mendoza and pianist Lorelei Capell in the Paprika courtyard. We found ourselves there a little early, which in itself, was a gift.

Stepping off the busy Ancha de San Antonio and into the courtyard is like stepping back in time, to something like 17th century Spain. Or, maybe a movie set.

Every corner, every niche, invites inspection. The eye flits over statues, cornices, carvings, flora, several layers of living space soaring into the sky above, and umbrellas.

Yes, a row of colorful umbrellas. They like artifacts from the French musical “The Umbrellas of Cherbourg” and convey a whimsical air to the setting from above.

As for the concert, there is none better to enhance the setting. David Mendoza has returned to San Miguel de Allende after an absence that was felt by many. He doesn’t just play the violin, he inhabits every note and imbues the music with an intoxicating joyfulness. You should see how people smile when he puts bow to strings. You can’t help it.

Lorelei Capell is the perfect complement to David’s flights of passion. Together they performed a set of deeply moving songs, mostly from classic movies. The set contained a fair number of compositions from Ennio Morricone, including from “Cinema Paradiso,” and one from Yann Tiersen’s soundtrack for “Amelie.”

“It is going to be a very romantic evening,”  Lorelei had said the day before. How right she was!

David went solo for the second half with his own compositions using drum tracks, sound loops, and reverb to augment his meditative and dreamlike music. He gently painted on layer upon layer of sound until a near orchestral density pulled at the heart.

With an uncanny sense of timing, the concert ended minutes before the skies opened and evening showers arrived.

___   ___   ___   ___   ___

David Mendoza performs in concert next on 25th September at Miguel Malo hall,  in the Bellas Artes. You can sometimes catch him around town, sitting in with other fine musicians, like Media Luna which performs Sundays at Paprika.

 

 

 

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Going micro at El Charco del Ingenio

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A view of the opposite wall of the canyon from El Charco. One of the few “scenic” photos I allowed myself today.

A wise old friend once said, “If you really want to observe life in the desert, get down on your hands and knees.”

His point was, everything that goes on in the fissures and tiny patches of shade on the dessert floor is every bit as complex and magical as the sweeping vistas and craggy mountain ledges and canyons and arroyos.

And he was right, you know. Thanks, Bud Murphy, where ever you may be.

I was thinking about old Bud this morning as we hiked up to El Charco del Ingenio, the jardin botanico in San Miguel de Allende. Two weeks ago when we hiked up here, I was mesmerized by the big picture: beautiful trails, the Presa las Colonias, the ancient canyon below the reservoir dam, the vast diversity of central Mexico flora on display.

Today, it was different. In the intervening two weeks, the rains have returned. Everything is green and healthy. The reservoir is spilling over just enough water to activate some of the canyon waterfalls.

But my focus was on the extraordinary patterns and textures of many of the plants in the garden, especially the cacti.

So, here is some of what you find when you get down on your hands and knees and look deep into the biosphere. Click on each image for an expanded view:

 

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Uncategorized

‘To see ourselves as riders on the earth together…’

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Apollo 8 astronaut William A. Anders took this celebrated shot of the Earth “rising” on Christmas Eve in 1968. NASA photo

Fifty years ago, when man landed on the moon, The New York Times turned to a poet, Archibald MacLeish, to place the event into some sort of context on its front page.

Seven months earlier, when the astronauts of Apollo 8 had become, on Christmas Eve, the first humans to enter the moon’s orbit, Archibald MacLeish also interpreted the meaning of it all for the Times, but in prose.

He referred to humankind as “brothers,” as was common then. If you overlook that, his concluding paragraph is profound:

“To see the earth as it truly is, small and blue and beautiful in that eternal silence where it floats, is to see ourselves as riders on the earth together, brothers on that bright loveliness in the eternal cold — brothers who know now they are truly brothers.”

I pray that when we next visit the moon, it will be for the benefit of all humankind and not the personal glorification of one.

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Woke up this morning …

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At sunrise this morning, August 4, 2019, in San Miguel de Allende.

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Same view of sunrise, Aug. 4, 2019, from a distance. Kind of a Mary Poppins feel to the morning …

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Memoirs -- fact and fiction, Uncategorized

A 2020 election? Time for Love 22 to run for president, again

love22Back in 1975 while trying to write a short story in the noisy University of Rhode Island student union, a peculiar string bean with long, long black hair under an Uncle Sam hat leaped atop a table and began to preach.

He was an “abecedarian,” a practitioner of the magical art of distilling everything in the world to the number 22. He proceeded to assign numerical values to the letters of the alphabet: A=1, B=2, C=3. Pretty simple stuff. But then he would take a word or sentence and slice and dice it by the numbers and with enough leaps of logic and poetic manipulations all that was left, in the end, was the number 22.

My short story was about a rogue CIA operative who lost a daughter named Julia to drugs at a rock concert and avenged her death by killing Jim Morrison, Jimi Hendrix, Brian Jones, Janis Joplin … all with first or last names starting with a “J.”

Anyhow, I put the story aside and focused on the deranged individual who by now had the rapt and largely stoned attention of the whole student body.

His name was Love 22. Yes, legally.

He made his fortune by inventing a little thing he called two-for-one coupons. Remember those? You’d buy a book filled with “twofers” for restaurants, movies, ice cream, tons of great date-night things. It was a massive hit.

And he eventually crashed and burned and when the Phoenix arose from the ashes, he was Love 22.

He was running for governor because the RI gov’s office is No. 222 in the capital building and because the capital in Providence is the No. 22 point of interest on the official Rhode Island tourism map. These things were true. I checked them out.

In fact, a lot of things that add up to 22, well, added up.

love22billsOne bogus but cherished item was the 22 dollar bills he handed out with his face on them. Those were keepers.

Once you start looking at life this way, it is very hard to turn away. Even to this day, I find myself pausing to look around when a clock hits 2:22 p.m., just to see if there is magic, whimsey or practical nonsense about.

I wrote about Love 22 for the local weekly paper, where I was working part-time.

A year and a few months later, I would find myself graduated from URI and the editor of that newspaper, The Narragansett Times.

Love 22 would drop by occasionally to announce wonderfully preposterous stunts like, he was going to set the world record for tossing a frisbee out to sea and catching it upon its return.

My favorite Love 22 stunt came around every Easter. In our neck of the woods, there were two fishing villages, Jerusalem and Galilee, divided by a wide channel. On Easter Sunday, Love 22 said, he was going to walk on top of the water from Jerusalem to Galilee.

I loved that but lacked the maturity and wit to appreciate the humor and write it up for our stodgy New England newspaper.

Did he do it? I don’t know. I had kids and Easter Sunday meant finding eggs, and refereeing chocolate-driven sibling spats, and reading the Sunday New York Times.

Not everything you love lasts forever. I moved on to a daily newspaper and Love 22 moved on to, well, god knows.

So what a shock to see that he is still alive and now running for president in 2020. Mark Patinkin, a PJB columnist I admired back in those days, recently wrote a column on Love 22.

He’s 82 and residing in a third-floor flat in an assisted living center. But he is still Love 22. And he’s gearing up a run for president in 2020 because … it is 2020. If zeros = nothing, then 2020 = 2 nothing 2 nothing = 22. It will be the Year of Love 22. Don’t you see? 

As for that short story, I never finished it. Or maybe it was supposed to be a novel. Either way, Love 22 was a better story. Still is, apparently.

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