Memoirs -- fact and fiction, San Miguel de Allende, Writings

Grandson: ‘Do you have pictures of your bull-fighting endeavors?’

The text came early last night from my 8-year-old grandson, Tallac. The one every grandfather awaits. The one in which a child actually asks an old man something about the life he lived long, long ago. 

The question: “Do you have pictures of your bull-fighting endeavors?”

It was as close as I would ever get to “Grandpa, what did you do during the war?”

Or, in theatrical terms, it was my Peter Falk in “Princess Bride” moment.

And I guess I blew it.

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Rants and raves, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Thoughts while returning to Mexico during the cartel ‘crisis’

The death of El Mencho at the hands of the Mexican military reached me in San Francisco as I was packing for my flight to Leon.

We’ve had enough cartel leaders captured and killed to know what follows.

Roads get blocked, buses and cars get torched, OXXO stores go up in flames.

It is the same thing every time. Which made me wonder two things:

  1. Why doesn’t the government anticipate the cartel response and preemptively shut them down?
  2.  Why OXXO stores?

I suspect the whole take-out-the-bad-guy and watch them burn an OXXO or two has been ritualized over the decades. I imagine the back-channel negotiation sounds like this: “We kill your guy, and you can torch some stuff. Show you are still the boss. Have you considered OXXO stores? There are tons of them.”

The whole thing becomes a one- or two-day outburst. The government gets its quarry, the cartel gets to vent, and the media gets its photos and videos of burning cars and buses. Win, win, win.

The alternative would be open warfare or guerrilla skirmishes that could last for weeks. And believe me, the tourism industry and resorts, largely financed by the cartels, do not want that.

Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes was a big deal, the most violent and ruthless leader in all of Mexico. When his Jalisco New Generation moves into new territory, it always comes with a bloody message. They borrowed the concept from the U.S. – shock and awe. The body count is high and feels indiscriminate.

JNG has spread through much of Mexico, so it is no surprise that there were at least 85 roadblocks reported by Sunday evening. By Monday, 30 cartel members were dead, as were 25 National Guard soldiers, and one civilian.

Importantly, the military was able to track down a close associate of El Mencho, his chief financial officer, who was coordinating the protests. He, too, was killed. On Sunday. That’s quick work for any country.

That may explain why things were rather quiet on Monday.

By the time I got to Oakland International on Sunday evening, flights to Guadalajara were back on the board, albeit delayed. There were no cancellations to other Mexican cities that I could see.

There were certainly no-shows. My Volaris flight was less than one-third full.

The airport in Leon was filled with people coming and going when we arrived at 5 a.m. I walked around as my driver waited fruitlessly for what turned out to be some of the no-shows. What I didn’t see was a military presence. No local police officers or private security agents, either. 

Kind of surprising since Leon is now considered New Generation turf.

Neither were there military details posted along the 90-minute drive to San Miguel de Allende. My driver, who can shuttle to the airports in Leon and Queretaro as many as four times in a day, said that Sunday was business as usual.

None of the half-dozen OXXO stores we passed were burned up, although I heard rumors that one was torched in downtown Leon. 

In San Miguel de Allende, a lot of places were closed on Sunday, including the main mall. A curfew was in effect on Sunday. A fire at an older mall was thwarted and quickly extinguished. Bus lines didn’t run. Schools and banks were closed on Monday.

Tuesday came in the most normal way. I walked Moppet, the Belizean philosopher dog. Ran into two friends having coffee at the Italian bakery, stopped to listen to musician Frad as she busked in front of another bakery, and later encountered two old friends in Wolf’s Gym, where I am preparing for my fall French Camino.

Afterward, I walked up to Comer, the major grocery store in SMA. The only thing unusual to report is that I was able to walk right up to a register and check out, without waiting. Trust me, at Comer, that is huge.

From Comer, the Uber driver said that business has been a little slow, but this was a Tuesday. He lives in Celaya but drives in San Miguel because – though smaller – we have more tourists and gringos and tip better.

There are a few things that struck me about this event. 

  1. There were an extraordinary number of fake AI-generated videos and images distributed with alarming speed – faster than the truth.
  2. Cars and buses on fire generate massive amounts of smoke and make great news photographs. But they are, in the end, only buses and cars.
  3. From what I can find, one civilian died in all this. ICE has killed more people in the U.S.
  4. Mexico is taking care of its business. El Mencho was a vicious character. If the U.S. supplied intel, then bravo. But it needs to respect Mexican autonomy and territory.
  5. The last time a cartel this powerful was knocked down, it splintered into smaller groups and formed alliances with other cartels, which grew stronger.
  6. These cartels have distribution networks in all 50 states. Is ICE taking them down? I haven’t heard of any drug rings being broken up in the past six months.
  7. The cartels get their guns from the U.S. The U.S. gets its drugs from the cartels. Maybe the administration is looking at the wrong “porous border” when it goes after immigrants and refugees.
  8. Nothing much happened in San Miguel de Allende, but that does not mean we get off scot free.

JNG has been locked in a turf war with our local cartel, Santa Rosa de Lima, and from what I’ve been told, they now have footholds in Guanajuato, Celaya, and Leon.

It feels like we are being encircled. Like we’re next.

There have been cartel killings and dismemberments in the outer colonias, and bodies found on the outskirts of SMA. More than we care to openly acknowledge. Tourism, and all.

Santa Rosa has been around for a long time. They are entrenched. They are also entrenched, I’m told, maybe five blocks from where I live.

But I could not tell you in eight years that I have ever seen a cartel guy. Not surprisingly, they look just like all the other guys. That should give the U.S pause, if it decides to “invade” Mexico to take out cartels.

Almost all wars since Vietnam have been fought by people who look just like civilians. And they never end well for the uniformed troops.

In nearly eight years here, I have not once felt threatened, in danger, or concerned. There is crime. I know people who have been robbed at roadblocks and on the streets here. I know of stores and restaurants that closed rather than continue to pay protection money.

I just hope the U.S. gives Mexico a fighting chance. Eliminating the cartels through military action is going to be violent, bloody, and damned scary, especially if you are a tourist sunbathing out in front of a beachside resort when the hammer comes down.

What U.S. reporters might look at is the burgeoning middle class that is making its presence known all across Mexico. Other countries are investing billions in manufacturing, assembly, and distribution facilities all across Mexico. There are jobs, jobs, jobs. In the past, the choice may have been a bleak one, between cleaning resorts and cartels. No more.

I met a young woman recently at her parents’ tiny restaurant here in Colonia San Antonio. She had been a design engineer for Rolls-Royce in nearby Queretaro. Now she is an insurance executive and is helping her parents grow their business. The educated young have choices unheard of 10 years ago.

Prosperity may be the best weapon Mexico can wield against the cartels.

That, and the United States getting a grip on its drug use and weapons manufacturing.

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Rants and raves, Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

Leiden sang, Aaronson painted — and the word for the night was ‘sublime’

It was only Leiden’s second or third song of the night, a ranchera – the music of love, passion, heartbreak, powerful emotions. Powerful music. In fact, it was the first ranchera she’d ever written.

“My father said to me,” recalled the Mexico City-based singer, “if you are going to sing rancheras, you have to suffer to feel it.” She paused and smiled slyly. “Now I have a degree in suffering.”

(And she does, a degree in sociology.)

“I not only can sing rancheras, I can create rancheras!”

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San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

An artist and a musician walk into a room and start talking — that’s Club Social San Miguel

What do you get when you put an artist with eclectic tastes into a room with a musician with eclectic tastes?

I don’t know, but why don’t you join me Saturday night and let’s find out together?

For the fifth time, Club Social San Miguel is uniting one amazing singer with one equally intriguing artist, and founder Sheree Boyer will kick off the conversation with the question, “What does your art mean to you?”

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Rants and raves, Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized

In one night, Orquesta Sinfónica De San Miguel de Allende has changed the cultural landscape

San Miguel de Allende has its own symphony orchestra. Do you know what that means?

It is the central gem in our cultural crown.

The city, for its small size, sparkles with opera, chamber music, writers, painters, and poets. (You know the saying, “If you aren’t an artist when you move to San Miguel, you will soon become one.”)

For the longest time, we’ve gotten by on occasional fly-bys from big-city orchestras and the wonderful youth symphony adventures.

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San Miguel de Allende, Writings

End animal suffering — one clinic at a time, that’s Rosey’s Wish

Some invitations are just too irresistible, like this one: Come join us out in the campo as we sterilize about 50 dogs and cats in the little community of San Antonio del Varal.

How could I say no to that?

The invitation came from Donna Lynes-Miller, the lifeforce behind Rosey’s Wish, a mobile veterinarian clinic on the front lines of the effort to reduce the number of abandoned and feral dogs and cats in San Miguel de Allende.

San Antonio Del Varal is a bit more than a half-hour away from, and a pleasant century or two behind, the city of San Miguel de Allende. An easy drive down the highway toward Queretero, and a sharp left onto a hard-packed dusty road that ends at the rancheria.

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San Miguel de Allende

Amazing grace of Operisima’s holiday concert

It is times like these that you realize what a precious treasure Operisima Mexico is for San Miguel de Allende.

The operatic troupe’s Christmas Concert in the Iglesia San Francisco added rocket fuel to an already soaring holiday spirit.

Nearly a dozen elegantly dressed singers poured heart and soul into a program of popular and sacred seasonal music under the direction of Rogelio Riojas-Nolasco and in conjunction with Casa Europa Mexico.

Here’s a small taste of the evening. It repeats tonight (Sunday, Dec. 14, by the way. You can walk up and get tickets $300 — 600 mxn.

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photography, San Miguel de Allende

To market, to market … this holiday we go

Every Christmas season, Mercado de San Juan de Dios is turned into a Winter Wonderland.

Well, pretty much minus the Winter part.

Let’s say it transforms into a Christmas Marketplace, without all the messy snow and sub-zero temperatures.

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Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, Uncategorized, Writings

Bob’s really good day

Behind me, fresh rainwater surged down Calle Terraplen like a full-blown arroyo wash. The rain beats a staccato rhythm on the roofs of curbed cars. I was inside Hotel Hacienda El Santuario’s nearly empty dining room, chilly but dry.

On the small table before me was a hot cup of black coffee and a curious but tasty postre of cornbread topped with ice cream, caramel sauce, and chopped nuts.

Not more than 20 feet away, through the archway into the open-air courtyard, pianist Javier Garcia-Lascurian and cellist Guillermo Sanchez Romero were working their way through a heart-rendering version of Saint-Saëns’s “Le Cygnet” (The Swan). Huddled along the barely sheltered walls of the courtyard sat the hardiest classical music audience I’ve ever seen. Some had umbrellas up to supplement the scant coverage of the eaves.

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photography, Reviews, San Miguel de Allende

Fireworks one day, serenely beautiful concert the next — the holidays have arrived in San Miguel

If the Christmas season got off to a banging start with the tree lighting and intensive fireworks display on Friday, the holiday was elevated to a serenely beautiful level on Sunday by a concert featuring organ and brass instruments in the Templo de la Tercera.

The concert was under the aegis of Chorale San Miguel and completely underwritten by arts patrons John and Joy Bitner. That’s right, some people give fruit cakes for Christmas, the Bitners throw open the doors to an ancient church and put on a concert of mostly classical music for free.

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