Reviews, San Miguel de Allende, The Week in SMA

March 24-31: An Easter parade of things happening in San Miguel de Allende this week

What better way to kick off Holy Week than the sacred rivalry U.S.A vs. Mexico in the finals of the Concacaf Cup — again? Ok, there are better ways if soccer isn’t your religion. We’ve got them here! (Photo: Concacaf)

You can attend two magnificent classical performances on the same day, a spooky play reading, a night of expert storytelling, and learn how to read “Ulysses” for pleasure. Watch as the greatest soccer rivalry in the Western Hemisphere fires up again Sunday night. Take to the stage for a Live Mic night, watch an Oscar-winning documentary, or see one of the greatest movies of all time.

The toughest seat in town will be for the re-birth of the guitar-fueled Media Luna’s trio of concerts.

Probably most important of all is that all week long the Catholic faithful will be reliving the Passion of Christ in ceremony, pageantry, prayer, liturgy, and in the end pyrotechnics.

It’s your week (plus Easter Sunday). Have at it.

As always, refer to these fine establishments for the latest in local entertainment and event news:

Discover SMA: https://discoversma.com/events/events

Lokkal events: https://www.lokkal.com/1,mexico,san_miguel_de_allende/events

San Miguel Live!: https://sanmiguellive.com/events

Remember, you can click on any image to expand it if your eyesight is as bad as mine. (Feel free to share this events calendar with your friends!)

Click to expand.

HOLY WEEK, March 24-31

Welcome to Holy Week when the fervor of the faithful rises to a fevered pace as the rise and fall of Christ is followed step by step in the reenactment of the Passion of Christ. 

This Sunday is Palm Sunday, a reminder of Christ’s triumphant entry into Jerusalem. Palms were laid before Him as he rode into town on a donkey. It doesn’t end well, as depicted in the Stations of the Cross which are reenacted on the neighborhood streets of San Miguel

Holy Monday recalls the “Arrest and Procession with the Divine Prisoner” in the Temple of the Oratory.

Holy Tuesday will see a “Passion Mass” at 7 p.m. in the Church of San Francisco.

Holy Wednesday there will be a solemn “Procession with the image of the Lord of the Column,” which will leave at 5 p.m. to travel the main streets of the San Juan de Dios neighborhood.

Holy Thursday, attend the Procession of the Temple of San Juan de Dios.

Good Friday, the procession of the “Holy Encounter” at 11 a.m. around the iconic parish of San Miguel Arcángel. This same day at sunset, the “Holy Burial” will take place. This is the most important procession for the people of San Miguel. Scores of people will fill the streets of Centro around the Parroquia. 

Saturday of Glory brings the Passion of Christ activities to a close with the “Ceremony of Condolence” starting at 6 p.m. in the Temple of the Oratory.

And Easter Sunday? Surprisingly less ceremonial than the previous Holy Week days. However, there is the absolutely explosive, zany, and cathartic celebration of the Exploding Judases. More on that at the bottom of this post.

March 24, 10:30 a.m., Free

Thar be treasure in those churches!

Who better to talk about the many hidden religious art treasures in San Miguel de Allende than a prolific local author who has been mining local gems of knowledge for years – Natalie Taylor?  She will highlight a few specific pieces found in the Parroquia and the adjacent San Rafael Church. I guess you could say, what Spain didn’t haul back to the homeland, Mexico’s Catholic Churches harbored for posterity. Not all such pieces are there for public viewing. For five years, Taylor has researched and photographed these works with an eye toward publishing an art book of her findings. This should be a most tantalizing talk.

Taylor will speak at the Unitarian Universalist Fellowship Sunday service at the Aldea Hotel on the Ancha. All are invited.

Want to watch the service on Zoom? Go to https://zoom.us/j/414604040 / Password: 294513. (Thank you, Ann Kuffner, for the information.)

March 24, 10 am-6 p.m.

The art you buy may fund the next Frida

Rodarte is an occasional curated arts and crafts bazaar that is sponsored by the Instituto Allende at Ancha de San Antonio #30. It is an opportunity to pick up some quality jewelry, textiles, home decor, clothing, accessories, candles, leather goods, traditional scarves, and lots more, made in Mexico by emerging artists, artisans, and entrepreneurs.

But Rodarte is so much more. The event’s proceeds help fund an art education program that has reached out to schools in the campo for the past eight years.

A win-win by any measure.

March 24, Sunday, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m.

Oscar-winning documentary: ‘20 Days in Mariupol’

All this past week, Cine Bacco has been presenting the Oscar-winning films of 2024 and none is more emotionally gripping than the real-life documentary of the Ukrainian city of Mariupol in the first 20 days of the Russian invasion. 

The screening is inside Bacco Ristorante, Hotel Sautto, on Hernandez Macias #59, Cost is $150 pesos. Phone: +52-415-115-2219

March 24, Sunday, 6 p.m.

Once upon a time …

… And that time is now. Storytelling is back and the San Miguel Literary Sala is organizing it. Tellers of tales tall and true will gather on this day at Cafe Murmullo (Ancha de San Antonio #24) under the intriguing theme “Unexpected Developments.” 

The storytellers Jade Wong, Rhoda Draws, Stephanie Medlock, Bea Aaronson, Amber Chand, and Zora Berger will heighten expectations while unraveling the unexpected. The event is free but donations will help cover the cost of the room.

March 24, 7:15 p.m.  

Guess who’s coming to Concacaf?

You guessed it: Mexico plays the U.S.A.!

The re-energized Mexico men’s national team goes up against the United States in the final of the Concacaf Nations League. The game is in Dallas at the AT&T Stadium – not necessarily a home-team advantage for the U.S. You can watch in Spanish on Univision,  in English on Paramount+, and at your local sports bar!

The U.S. has won the past two Concacaf face-offs with Mexico – in 2021 and 2023 – but this may be the time to be sporting Green! The U.S. barely beat a depleted Jamaica team to make the finals, by as close to an act of God as you can get in soccer/football. Mexico made a 3-0 power statement against Panama. FIFA currently ranks Mexico #15 and the U.S. #13.

Mexico’s performance has improved since Jaime Lozano took over last year. Less experienced than recent coaches, it feels like he’s working some Ted Lasso magic on the team. This could be the fun!

March 25, 26, 28, 29; 1-3 p.m.

Reading James Joyce’s ‘Ulysses’ for Pleasure 

Many a soul has taken to drink,

After attempting ‘Ulysses,” I think.

The feller himself was known to hoist

While writing the Book, infernal James Joyce.

You can’t improve on the title for this course at the Instituto Allende’s Lifelong Learning program. 

“Ulysses” is enormously challenging but also rewarding. Like running a marathon, only with less exhaustion. I think. Reading for pleasure isn’t everyone’s first inclination.

Here is instructor Prof. Terry Fitzpatrick’s synopsis: “This course will focus on how to ‘read’ Joyce’s multilayered masterpiece for the same kinds of pleasures with which we read other novels …. Because ‘Ulysses’ was so radically different from previous novels, we need to let it show us how to experience these usual pleasures …. In the end, however, it’s a simple love story. And we all do love a good love story, even when Joyce tells it ‘slant’ (as Emily Dickinson recommended).”

Tuition is $600 pesos. Details/register info here: https://instituto-allende.edu.mx/eng/lifelong-learning-program/

March 25, Monday, 6 p.m.

Gimme Shelter! Gimmie movies!

Shelter Theater on Calle Vicente Guerrero #4, in Colonia San Rafael, has set out on a noble journey – to show every one of the Top 100 movies as listed by Time magazine, one movie at a time.

This week, it’s one of the very best: “Casablanca” from 1942 with Humphry Bogart, Ingrid Bergman, Paul Henreid, and some of the most quotable dialogue ever written for a movie.

For a mere $100 pesos per seat. Such a deal. Movie lovers, I think this id the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

March 26, Tuesday, 9 a.m.- 4 p.m. 

To market to market, to Tuesday Market

If this is Tuesday, it must be the Tianguis de los Martes, one of the best shows in town. And baby, “Barato! Barato! Barato!” This massive market is held every Tuesday – but this being Easter Week promises special flourishes in food, clothing, and holiday treats.

Located a few blocks from the Luciernega Mall, there are buses and taxis galore to get you there and back. Everything is covered under giant roofs and tarps – possibly as many as six full football fields worth. Maybe more! It is noisy, crowded, colorful, sensual, scintillating, surprising, communal, exuberant, exhilarating, circus-like – you’d be crazy to not go, at least once. If only for the food!

March 26 and 27, Tuesday and Wednesday

Luna-tics rejoice!

UPDATE: Paprika will be in the traditional restaurant seating, not concert seating. As of Sunday, there were some seats available for the Tuesday afternoon show.

Stellar guitarists Caleb and Jair Cabrera have rejoined forces and the beloved Media Luna is back at Paprika Restaurant, Ancha de San Antonio #9. Sadly, by the time you read this, the evening shows may well be sold out. There is an afternoon show on Tuesday at 1 p.m. Give it a shot. 

Media Luna has gone through many changes over the years but Caleb and Jair have been unshakable, constants, guiding stars. A while ago, Jair left to deal with personal issues and this will be a triumphant return. There is even rumor of a recording in progress. With the brothers will be Kim Alef and Jon Jamison and some special guests.

For concert seating, the price is $650 pesos. There will be appetizers and a cash bar. Call 415-152-4373 or 415-111-7013.

March 26 and 27, Tuesday and Wednesday, 6 p.m.

Not ‘The Thin Man’ but ‘The Thin Place’

Playreaders is back with a haunting and provocative new production at Teatro Santa Ana in the Biblioteca, Relox 50A. “The Thin Place” is “a genuine ghost/horror story” that travels the narrow path between our world and “the other.”

The  Lucas Hnath play is directed by Paula Lopuch, with Brian Munroe, Clara Dunham, Marjorie Burren, and Gina Giampaoli Alderton.

Tickets are $100 pesos and will be sold only at the door; first come first served. Persons from this dimension get priority seating … perhaps.

March 26, Tuesday, 6 p.m.  

Open Mic at Shelter Theater

So I emailed Stephy a few quick questions on Open Mic night at Shelter Theater: 1. Do you get mostly musicians or are poets, readers, comics, and storytellers also in the mix? 2. How much time per act? 3. How big an audience? 4. How long has Open Mic been operating? Thanks.

Stephy Martínez replied:” Hey! 1. Musicians (mostly)  2. 10 mins if you are a singer or musician and 7 mins if you are a comedian or poet, etc.  3. Sometimes it varies, it can be either 10 people or 20 people  4. Two months.”

Got an act you want to try out before taking it on the road? This is your chance!

Sign-up starts at 5:30 p.m. Fee is $100 pesos. Location: Calle Vicente Guerrero #4, in Colonia San Rafael.

March 27, Wednesday, 5 p.m.

For better health, informed choices

Hospital Joya is holding the third in a series of health seminars at Convention Center La Casona, Calle Josefina Orozco #2. 

The topic will be “Most Common Colorectal Diseases,” which is more relevant to this community than you might first think! Dr. Edgar Tapia, an internist,  and Dr. Mauricio Tapia, a gastroenterologist, will present the program at 5:30 p.m. There will be appetizers and wine starting at 5 p.m.

March 28, Thursday

Anybody home?

March 29, Friday

Hello. Hello?

March 30, Saturday, noon 

A Concert for Holy Week

A greatly augmented San Miguel Chorale presents Les Sept Paroles du Christ  (In English, “The Seven Last Words of Christ”) on Holy Saturday. An auspicious prelude to Easter, 19th-century French composer Théodore Dubois’s dramatic and powerful work depicts in music the last words Jesus uttered during his crucifixion. Soloists will be soprano Maribel Salazar, tenor Jesús Palato, and San Miguel baritone Daniel Sandoval. The Chorale is joined by La Camerata de la Nueva España from Guanajuato. 

The program will last an hour (without an intermission) and finish close to 1 pm. Tickets $700, $500, $300 pesos.

March 30, Saturday, 4 p.m.

Opera’s Superstars: Sixth Annual Winners’ Concert 

Four winners of the annual MetOpera Laffont Competition, held last November in San Miguel for the Mexico District, will get a chance to perform together, not compete, for a San Miguel audience at La Casona Convention Center, Calle Josefina Orozco #2.

The performers are soprano Jennifer Mariel; Rafael Rojas, tenor; Raul Morales, bass; and Olymar Sandoval, tenor. They will present a program of on the program: arias, duets, trios, and quartets, from composers including Puccini, Gounod, Donizetti, Gershwin, Bernstein, Weill, and Catán. 

The musical offerings have been staged by artistic director Ragnar Conde; the pianist is Andrés Sarre.  Both worked closely with the Mexico winners as they moved on to regional competition in Denver. 

Mariel, from Cancun, recently was awarded a residency at Ravinia, the summer home of the Chicago Symphony. Rojas and Morales have been accepted into the four-year program at the Academy of Vocal Arts in Philadelphia.

Tickets are available from Boleto City. There will be English and Spanish supertitles.

March 31, Easter Sunday, Noon

Blowing up the Judases

The full tortured passion and drama of Mexico’s Roman Catholic heritage is unleashed when San Miguel commemorates Christ’s crucifixion. On Good Friday, following a mock trial, real-life Christ imitators drag crosses around the town, followed by a mourning Mary Magdalene and the disciples and prodded by Roman centurions.

The grande finale is the Exploding Judases on Easter Sunday in front of the government building on the square. Life-size papier mache figures of politicians, celebrities, thieves, shady characters, and Judas Iscariot are blown up in the town’s public gardens. The figures are hoisted into the air where small rockets send them spinning and smoking in circles until — WHAM!! — paper body parts everywhere. You haven’t lived until you’ve seen children scurrying for paper arms, legs, torsos, and heads to take home.

This is real catharsis. In years past, the “executioners” saved the best for last: an effigy of Donald Trump. Not recently, though his cries for bloodshed and calling migrants “vermin” merit him a place of prestige on the dias of destruction. If you ask me …

March 31, Sunday, 1:15 p.m.

Went to a garden party …

What could be more Easter Sunday-like than listening to a choir in a lovely garden while sipping beverages and admiring everyone dressed in their Holiday finest?

The place will be the Salazar Restaurante and Gardens, Salida Real a Queretaro #64 (located inside the Hotel Posada La Ermita). The centerpiece will be the Sing San Miguel Choir, led by jazz and soul vocalist Sibyl English. 

The gardens open at 1:15 p.m. and the choir performs at 1:45 p.m.
Tickets are $600 pesos for adults and $300 pesos for children 12 & under. Details at: https://www.sibellacircle.com/ .  Members of the choir are also selling tickets if you know of one.

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