Well, so much for the Wasted Purchase Theory: Buying a new rain poncho did not keep away the rain.
It was drizzling when I left Sarria at 7 am. I resisted putting on the poncho, in the hopes that my theory would prevail.
After an hour and a mild soaking, I gave in, broke out the shiny new poncho, and put it on.
Two minutes later, the rain stopped.
Five minutes later, I was in front of a charming cafe that promised hot coffee, fresh-squeezed OJ, and an omelette.
I took off the mostly dry poncho and practiced compressing it into a little pouch. After several tries, it actually fit.
First started noticing the traditional grain storage bins unique to Galicia yesterday. They are called hórreos, but there are many local names as well.
When we first saw them on the Portuguese Camino, someone with great conviction insisted they were built to shelter pilgrims at night. An image I can’t shake.
Breakfast, as usual, was sweetened by a casual conversation with a complete stranger, who felt like an old friend after about 20 minutes.
Grainne is Irish, an engineer with her own tech-book publishing company. She is not beholden to the linear aspects of the Camino. She is picking and choosing her walks, sometimes backtracking to visit with friends, and she will jump to another Camino when she meets up with her husband in a day or two.
Of course we knew some of the same Camino people, including Lee and Nelly who popped in while we talked.
Suddenly it was 9 am, the sun was shining, and all the pilgrims who start in Sarria were climbing the hill.
(Sarria is the closest starting point to Santiago for pilgrims who want the Camino certificate, a Compostela).
Including a large group in matching T-shirt with two guides pointing out that the cafe has bathrooms for anyone in need.
Today was more of the same beautiful forest trails as yesterday. Galacia seems to do it right — trails and signage to perfection.
It was also a day for encountering old friends I’ve been missing for days.
Mike, Jarek, and Taylor all showed up as I was enjoying my morning snack — a banana, a tangerine, and some dark chocolate.
Later I stopped into another cafe — this may be why I haven’t lost weight — and joined Lee and Hong for cheesecake and fresh orange juice.
This will be the last time I see them. Tomorrow, Lee and Hong will walk 40 kilometers and 30 more the following day.
They have a plane to catch back to South Korea. Two of my favorite pilgrims, we promised to send each other photos from Santiago.
The day moved from forest trails to country roads cutting through cattle grazing pastures.
Every little village carries the unmistakable odor of cattle. I think in many places, the family lives upstairs and their cattle live below with the tractor and other farm equipment.
Tight quarters for sure.
The fields are crisscrossed with stone fences, much like Ireland. My Irish friends agree but insist the Irish landscape has many more and more vibrant shades of green.
They might be right.
Portomarin is a sight to behold from the distance. Every building is white, like a sprawling hospital complex.
The town itself was at one time, down the hill beside the river. When the Mino River became the Belesar Reservoir in the 1960s, much of the town was moved uphill, stone by stone.
That includes the imposing Church of San Nicholas in the town square. They say you can still see assembly numbers on some of the blocks.
In the shallow reservoir, you can still see pieces of foundations of the original town.
To get to the town we cross a bridge so high, some pilgrims were a bit terrified. Heck, I stayed far away from the rail.
Once on the Portomarin side, we must climb about 100 granite steps and walk through a portal to reach the town.
Good defensive position against raiding hoards.
Well, I got in with enough time to book beds all the way through to Santiago, less than 100 kilometers away. I will arrive October 21.
I don’t fly out of Paris until Oct. 25, so I’m thinking a train to Madrid or Bilboa, then fly to Paris.
Any suggestions?
Don’t say walk to Finisterre!
Give us this day our daily cows:
And a horse, of course:
No cats today, sorry.
