Just after Hospital de Orbrigo, the Camino road offered two paths to Astorga.
Straight ahead promises more of the same as yesterday — highway traffic just feet away, but a relatively flat and shorter route to tonight’s destination. it is the traditional Camino Frances route.
To the right is the alternative route. It clearly has some hills, but also several villages, which held the promise of a bar or cafe with coffee and breakfast.
As it was, I was cold and near-starving, as I’d left in the dark two hours earlier without a bite to eat.
On the street, someone had painted a smiley face next to the arrow for the alternative route. (And, of course, a frown face next to the traditional — aka roadside — route.
That did it. Hills and extra mileage be damned. We were all sick of walking beside the highway.
Early morning scenes on the Camino today:
Long story short, every town had an open cafe, the hills were indeed challenging, and the distance was felt by the 16th mile.
But oh, it was beautiful.
Farmland and forest. Quaint little towns. No traffic.
One of the nicest days so far.
Just before the alternate route, we crossed the 13th century Órbigo Bridge, longest on the Camino at 200 meters and supported by 20 arches.
Little of it crosses the actual river anymore. But it remains impressive. Beside it are the jousting fields, still in use today during festival time.
There is a connection between the a legendary knight’s penchant for jousting and the Cervantes novel “Don Quixote.”
Scenes from the alternative Camino route today:
I’m in Astorga now, in a Franciscan monastery. We had a Camino gathering tonight, my first on this whole experience. People talked about why they are walking. Right afterward, there was a Mass and special blessing. All of it was quite moving.
Scenes from Astorga:
A few blocks away is the Astorga cathedral, as impressive as any I’ve seen so far. From the outside. No time to go in.
Next to it is a Gaudi-designed mansion that was once the bishop’s estate. Now it is a hotel and museum. It is like something you’d find in a Disney park.
Like Burgos, Leon, and other great cities, Astorga has great public squares filled with people and restaurants. Cars are scarce in the city center. People are prioritized.
